I am just feeling like I am not doing stage one right I say ow and then ignore him but even while I am ignoring him he is trying to bite at me still sadly my house is one room giant room so I can´t really get away I have just been turning my back I haven´t really noticed a decrease in nipping and
The purpose of teaching bite inhibition is not to decrease the amount of nipping nipping does go away on its own but it takes months. the purpose is to lessen how hard the dog nips. Rather tha ridged hard steps I tend to keep the frequency say I say ow the same using this technique which mean in order to do this I started reducing the presure required to produce an ow. not is descreate steps but gradually over time. Not say my method is better it whats works for me for other a more concreated and definable criteria is easier hence steps.
sadly my house is one room giant room so I can´t really get away you do not need to leave but create distance that the dog can not close. This can be done by teather the dog. For instance if you put the dog on leash before engaging in play. if the dog bites to hard you can walk away far enough the dog can not follow. Also you can use the crate to creat the same issolation. I know there are some that say never use the crate for punishment but if done right you are not punsihing the dog you are actual rewarding the dog. Yep reward the dog for hard bites with alone time in the crate. If he does not like the reward he is going to try someting else to get your attention.
see
Insights into puppy mouthing
Since your dog's clear intention is to get your attention then yelling "no" does little beyond reinforcing his behavior. He wants your attention, he nips you, you give attention. Worked perfectly. Keep doing it. If it stops working do it harder or bigger.
And about the yelping out in pain technique. I hate when people suggest this as if it is the Holy Grail of stopping mouthing. It totally depends on why the dog is nipping, how you yelp and how they respond to the yelping. With some dogs this idea alone can stop nipping and play biting in its tracks. But as you have discovered there are other dogs who are simply more triggered by the response. And you actually escalate the intensity of the behavior.
This is the problem with trying to help people with out actually seeng the dogs behavior. you don;t know if the coause of the problem is because there is a flaw in how they are executing the technique or if the technique is not suited for this particular dog in this particular case.
from link above
Something else this makes me think of. I must say I have a different take on the notion of negative punishments. To begin with I don't call them that and think the semantics of them is a problem because of the attitude it creates. I do not want to take anything away from the dog as a punishment so that they will decrease the chance of the behavior happening. I Reward the dog. Just not with the Reward they would prefer
If for example the dog is jumping and nipping for attention I reward the Behavior. BUT I reward it with something like me going away. "Yippie, you win! I bet I know what you would like! Your Reward is my disappearance." I know that it is semantics on one level but on another level it is really a completely different methodology.
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If my attitude remains that I am having a great time and even better if I am acting like I think that the Undesired Reward is what the dog wants I am not setting up a conflict. But I am motivating the dog to reexamine its choices. I am encouraging the dog to try and educate me as to the best thing to do. And when the dog figures out that biting and nipping me is the stupidest way to get me to play they will look for a better way. And when they think that the reward I offer is not worth the effort it weakens the probability of that behavior continuing to be offered.
You Won the Prize
{quote]You won the prize" originated, I believe, with Susan Garrett. The author of this post does a fabulous job explaining it, however.
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Try the "you won a prize" method. It's basically a time-out, but given so cheerfully that the dog doesn't seem to realize it's in trouble. I used this quite successfully with my greyhound girl Allegra, who was seriously trying to break through an 8-foot-wide picture window several times a day to get to passing squirrels, dogs, kids on skates, cats, crows, mailmen, trash collectors, etc. I got this idea from someone whose dog would not stay off the kitchen table. It requires that you become a world-class actor--the whole point is to never show that you are angry, just give the dog a very short time out **every** time the forbidden transgression occurs.
When your dog barks, just say "You won a prize" in the most disgustingly chirpy voice you can muster, then go take her collar and cheerfully and gently put her into a crate or a room that's located in a remote area of the house, where she will spend the next 2 to 5 minutes totally alone. Set a timer so you don't forget her. When it goes off, let her out again immediately, and wait for the next incident. You MUST be totally consistent or this won't work.[/quote]
A couple thing to consider when the puppy is nipping to hard what is the excitement level of the dog? Does this onlyu occur when over excited? if so then part of the training need to include not reaching that over excited threashold. that is interject calm period before the dog gets over excited. When playing with dog I often stop and won't continue until they will let me pet them without them trying to go for my hand as i move it toward them this must be done very slowly and deliberiately because when playing the prey drive is elivated and every movement is going to get a reaction move slowly if dog moves stop and slow withdraw then try again slowly. Over time the dog learns the faster it calms itself the sooner it gets to play another good self control exercise. If you are not doing so I also sugeest
Protocol for Relaxation
