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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a new basset owner, and very excited about my little patito (tito for short). I am a little worried that the breeder I got him from lied when he told me patito is eight weeks old because he seems so small to me...does anyone remember what there puppies wieghed when they first got them?

Also he is a nipper I say ow and give him one of his toys but he doesnt really like any of his toys normally he rejects that and trys to nip me again. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 

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Such a cutie! Makes me want to get another one. The nipping is just part of being a puppy...I had a terrible time with that and really thought that he would never outgrow it but.....like everyone advised me, they do. Reacting with a loud owwww and leaving the scene helped more than anything. Just make sure you return and love him up after a few minutes. They really are very sensitive. Now that I think of it, it probably was the biggest problem I had.....time and patience. He'll be perfect before you know it.
 

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Yeah both mine nipped. Molly has grown out of it and Winston is on his way. Just be firm and he'll get there.

To answer your other question: I got both mine at 8 weeks old. Molly weighed 8 lbs and Winston was around 10, I think (he's a big boy).
 

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Our Basset, Daisy, was very small too. I don't think she weighed 10lbs. And she was very skinny. Now she is getting very big at 6 months old. 8 weeks old is very young. Daisy 10 weeks old when we got her. She nips you cause she likes you. Ours does that too. Bassets are not known for being obedient. We got our deceased Basset, Buddy, when she was about a year old. She always had a mind of her own, was very curious and real smart about getting out of the yard. Having a Basset as a brand new puppy is deffinitely a different experience. We got Daisy about a month after losing Buddy. Our Pekingese, Spike, took losing Buddy hard and we thought it would be good for him. He is back to his old self now, and we are still healing. Daisy helps though. Just got through potty training, now tackling the jumping on people, ect. When they get older they are a very lazy breed. Buddys favorite thing to do was sit on the couch with us. Great family dog. Just give him time and work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone I was worried because he was so little (six pounds!).

I will keep up with saying ow and hope he catches on! Any toy suggestions, or do very little pups just not like them? I have limited options here in Guatemala but I can get someone to send me some.

I am sure I will have more questions for you all later! Thanks for all the help in advance!
 

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I personally love Kong products. It started with the little rubber chew toy that you can fill with treats or whatever your dog likes. Keeps them occupied for a bit, as they have to work to get to the good stuff.

Now that my babies are older, I buy other Kong toys, as they hold up pretty well. Molly and Winston can destroy the average toy in record time. I even bought them a Kong bed, since Molly destroyed her old bed when she was only a few months old. This new one has survived 2 teething dogs with no problem.

I swear I am not getting kickbacks from Kong, but rather love them a lot. Here's a link to their site: Dog & Cat Toys & Dog Treats - Pet Toys, Dog Chew Toys | KONG Company
 

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Six lbs is pretty small.Did you get anything with his suposed date of birth.Some so-called breeders tell people anything just as long as the puppy goes and they don't have to feed it any longer. Puppies do nip but nipping can get to biting quickly if not curtailed.
 

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Bowser is a year and a half old now, healthy weight at 50lbs...but when we got him he was a day under 6 weeks old, and was 7lbs. Boys tend to be bigger, but sounds like yours may have been a bit under 8 weeks, or else really skinny. REALLY skinny!
More than likely it was too young, just like ours!
 

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Michelle, keep an eye on the Barkingdeals.com website, it seems that just about every toy they have a deal for is a Kong toy! And for half price and free shipping! Love it.
I think I read about them on your blog, actually. I am awaiting 2 orders of Kong toys as we speak. One should be here any day :) Very good deals!
 

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They had these fun looking Kong plush-type toys today. Very cute and tons of little animals but Annie turns anything plush into a drippy-drool-cake-like thing that no one wants to touch LOL. So I'm holding out for the more durable non-fuzzy Kong gear :)

Back to the thread topic...I can't remember Annie's weight when she was a baby dog :( But she was tiny-ish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah but it is just a paper so I would not be suprised if he made it up because I think I made it pretty clear I wasn't taking a puppy before two months...It is hard here because dogs are not pets as we consider them they are tools. I am hoping to get the nipping to stop I keep saying ow and giving him something else but it has been a struggle so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Bowser is a year and a half old now, healthy weight at 50lbs...but when we got him he was a day under 6 weeks old, and was 7lbs. Boys tend to be bigger, but sounds like yours may have been a bit under 8 weeks, or else really skinny. REALLY skinny!
More than likely it was too young, just like ours!


He is not that skinny I think he must be young...did this affect your training?
 

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not at all. i found that he was still a "baby" baby, being that young...he needed me more, but I also found that he bonded to me better, in my opinion : ) I am his MAMA and he knows it! The only worry is that some people think the younger they are they don't get doggy socialization as much if they are not with their puppy litter...but Bowser has his beagle sister daisy, and some dogs at my mother-in-laws house, so i think he's done fine.

If anything i think his training has been easier because he bonded to me so well he wants to please me all the time.
I think you guys will be just fine! : )

Oh and as for Kongs...bowser hates them! he doesn't like the rubber smell. He only plays with soft non-smelly toys *lol*
 

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At this age you actual do not want to stop the puppy from nipping. It is something they will out grow over time anyway what you do want to do is start training bite inhibition and that is teaching the the dsog not to bite hard. That way when the dog is in a situation it feels it has to bite it will not cause an injury. It is by far the most important thing to teach a dog

Bite Inhibition - How to Teach It
Again from Dr. Dunbar, there are four stages of bite inhibition. The first two stages involve decreasing the force in the bites. The second two stages involve decreasing the frequency of the bites. The training *must* be done in that order. If you decrease the frequency first, the dog won't learn to soften his bite. The stages:
1. No painful bites. 90% of puppies will stop if you give a high-pitched squeal or yelp. If they stop, praise and reinforce by continuing the game. The other 10% and puppies who are tired or overstimulated will escalate their behavior instead of stopping. This requires you to confine the puppy or end the game. Remove all attention. It does *not* require any added aversive -- yelling, popping the nose or under the chin, shoving your hand down his throat, or spraying with water.
If you end the game, you need to be able to get away from the puppy with as little fuss or attention as possible. Even negative attention is attention. It's often helpful to have the puppy tethered, so you can simply move back out of his reach. Or, have him in a confined area and simply stand up and move past a boundary. Because the getting up and moving is tough to do at the instant the undesired behavior occurs, consider using a hand signal that will always mean "You're a jerk. Fun's over." Use it consistently when poor behavior occurs and you're going to withdraw attention.
I am well aware that puppy teeth hurt, and that this step can be overwhelming. Do it when you can, and at other times redirect, redirect, redirect. Puppy mouthing is a 100% natural dog behavior. It's not dominant. It's not meanness. It's a puppy being a puppy. When it's too much either redirect or end the game. Aversives are confusing, unfair, and unnecessary.
2. Eliminate all pressure. You want to gradually shape the dog to "gum you to death." Service dog trainers do this routinely, because service dogs often have to use their mouths to manipulate human limbs. Basically, you do this gradually. Set a limit of how hard the dog can bite. If he bites harder, yelp. Gradually set your limit for softer and softer bites. Remember to do this gradually. A big jump in criteria is confusing and frustrating to the dog.
Redirection ie, shoving a toy in the dog mouth stops the dog from biting you, it does nothing about teaching bite inhibition.
 
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