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Hi there! New member here! I’m getting a puppy the end of June and have some questions. I currently have a rescue Basset now so I’m familiar with the breed and love them! I’m trying to get everything ready for him when he comes home and I have lots of things in my cart from Chewy. I still would like some input.

How do you know what size harness? Or do you buy that when you pick him up?

They really aren’t supposed to be on the ground (other than your own for a while right?)

How much can I walk him if any?

What about flea/tick control? Heart worms? I have Freckles in Trifexis and it’s worked beautifully but you have to buy a 6 pack. I have no idea what my pup will weigh.

When do I schedule his first vet visit?

Have you ever flown a dog? I’m planning to pick him up but there’s a small chance I might not be able to.

He’s a European Basset so he’ll probably weigh a lot lol! What kind of food? A lot of dogs are allergic to chicken so should I even try that at all?

How long did it take y’all to house break and any tips?

Thank you!!
 

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I'll try to answer your points -
1. I don't do harnesses and if he's going to be around 8 weeks you'd be way better buying an adjustable soft puppy collar (so you can increase the size as he grows , until he's ready for an adult collar). I'd recommend using a martingale when he's older. And don't buy any collar until you have him and can measure him - there are many soft puppy collar and lead combinations available. EDIT - to answer Mikey's point about choking on collars - we NEVER leave collars on our hounds when indoors. And certainly wouldn't with a puppy - just add it when they are playing, so they get used to wearing one.

2. You can, and should (he'll benefit from some fresh air and sun on his back) let him out on your property privided it's fully contained. Once he's had all his puppy vaccination, then he can go out off your property. If you have another hound, you might limit where you exercise him until your puppy is fully vaccinated so he doesn't walk in infection. Similarly for your shoes. You can of course, take him out and about, in the back of your car - carrying him will quickly become impossible as he grows LOL EDIT - again to answer Mikey's comment - you should NOT take a puppy off his own ground until he's had ALL his vaccination. Why risk infection - it only takes one. If the puppy has the correct Basset temperament, all this 'socialising' stuff gets to me. We have never had any problems with our hounds who did NOT go off our property on the ground, until FULLY vaccinated.

3. No organised walking, especially on hard ground, until he's around 6 months - especially if he's going to be a big boy (I'll get to all this European Basset stuff in a mo). Take it easy so he reaches maturity still sound.

4. & 5 Take him to your own vet within the first 24 - 48 hours and then ask him about internal and external parasites

6. Yes we've flown our Bs, both ways across the Atlantic (UK to Canada and back). Two were puppies (two separate occasions) but one was 5 MONTHS and the second 7 MONTHS. I'd not fly a young puppy. It's always best to collect yourself, so you can see the breeders and where he's been raised. Unless, as was the case with me, you KNOW the breeders.

7. Since when did the Breed in the US split into 'European' and non European versions of the breed. Yes there are small differences in both Breed Standards, but there should basically be no difference. He may have bloodlines that were imported from Europe/UK behind him but again European is just a sales ploy.

8. I have never had one, in all my years with the breed, who has been allergic to chicken.. Not to say your puppy could be, but I'd not anticipate that being the case. He should be on the food his breeder has been using, at least initially. If you need to switch, do it gradually over at least a week of mixing the new with the old. And make sure you use a product that lists meat, or fish, as the main (first) ingredient. Not cereal which is where some dogs can have problems. Cereal is just bulk - filler. EDIT - re Mikey's suggestion about using large breed food - sorry, but in my experience, all 'large breed' puppy food means is bigger kibble.

9. Mine have generally been as reliable as any Basset can be, indoors. How fast depends on how good and clear you are with your housetraining. You have to be persistent, and consistent. And correct only in the act or the hound won't understand why you are angry with him. Do not use pee pads as they tell any dog it's fine to empty indoors.

Please be guided by his breeder in all of this - provided they are reputable and experienced people.

Have fun.

FINAL EDIT - anybody can copy and past articles to fit personal views. I could do exactly that but prefer to give you information based on my own personal experiences within the breed, since 1972, both in the UK and overseas. How much of what I put forward you use, is totally up to you - and provided you are buying from a reputable, knowledgeable and experienced breeder, he/she is who you should listen to. Not all methods, including exercise and feeding, suit all bloodlines. I don't quite understand why the need to answer this question, by answering or contradict my replies!!
 

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1. collar's can be a choking hazzard indoors especial if it has id or VAC tags attached

2. Absolutely No ,logical reason for that believe keeping the dog confided is accually more harmfull see,. avsab position statement on puppy socialization
https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Puppy-Socialization-Position-Statement-FINAL.pdf and

"Because the first three months are the period when sociability outweighs fear, this is the primary window of opportunity for puppies to adapt to new people, animals, and experiences. Incomplete or improper socialization during this important time can increase the risk of behavioral problems later in life including fear, avoidance, and/or aggression. Behavioral problems are the greatest threat to the owner-dog bond. In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters.3 Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age. ...the combination of maternal immunity, primary vaccination, and appropriate care makes the risk of infection relatively small compared to the chance of death from a behavior problem. Veterinarians specializing in behavior recommend that owners take advantage of every safe opportunity to expose young puppies to the great variety of stimuli that they will experience in their lives. Enrolling in puppy classes prior to three months of age can be an excellent means of improving training, strengthening the human-animal bond, and socializing puppies in an environment where risk of illness can be minimized. "
Puppy Vaccinations: Why Puppies Need a Series of Shots

Avoiding areas of increased risk however is not a bad idea such outdoor dog park frequented by adult dogs would be such a high risk area. Or High traffic area of Feral/street dogs. that are much more likely to harbor an infection.



3 there are no scientific baises for any "guidlines" People provide in this area. Too much exercise is bad, too little is bad as well what is the right amount no one actual knows, You have to make you own descision based ojn the actual puppy and the terrian/surface conditions, fitness level of puppy, temperature. type of exercise etc. see

"Skeptvet.com/Blog/2009/12/exercise-in-puppies-are-there-rules/"
"Very little is known about the precise risks and benefits of different types and intensities of exercise in growing animals.

One case control observational study [1] surveyed dog owners and found playing with other dogs to be a risk factor for OCD. Another, similar study [2] found chasing balls and sticks was a risk factor for development of hip dysplasia and elbow abnormalities. However, these studies cannot answer the overall question, which is how much and what kinds of exercise pose how great a risk and provide how great a benefit. One study [3] found exercise to be part of the treatment of carpal laxity, another joint abnormality seen in large breed puppies, and there is no question that exercise has many benefits, including reducing the risk of obesity and simply being part of a normal, enjoyable life for a puppy.

...The research evidence, then, really does not provide anything like a definitive answer to questions about the effects of exercise in growing puppies. Common sense suggests that forcing a dog to exercise heavily when it does not wish to is not a good idea. Likewise, puppies sometimes have more enthusiasm than sense and can exercise to the point of heat exhaustion, blistered footpads, and other damage that may be less obvious. Therefore, a general principle of avoiding forced or voluntary extreme exercise is reasonable, but specific and absolute statements about what kind of exercise is allowed, what surfaces puppies should or should not exercise on, and so forth is merely opinion not supported by objective data. S
uch opinions may very well be informed by personal experience, and they may be reliable, but any opinion not founded on objective data must always be taken with a grain of salt and accepted provisionally until such data is available."

4 & 5 As soon as Possible. Many contracts specify within 7 days of purchase if after that you may have less protection if the puppy does have a health issue currently or later one.



6 I have flown adult dogs never puppies, Personally I would never purchase a puppy that I have not seen in person first but that is me.


7 a "Since when did the Breed in the US split into 'European' and non European versions of the breed. "
Since European breeder will sell breeding stock to just about anyone in US without checking the actual Situation. Many marginal breeders in US in which more reputiable breeder will not sell breeding stock. Have gone to overseas breaders for stock,. and then advertises as
Rare European etc for marketing and increase sales price,. Any Breeder advertising "European" is highly suspect. From the BHCA Buyer Beware
and Basset Hound's look

B. The breeder should be recommend a food that workes for there lines nothing quite like past results tto predict future, not all foods work for all lines. The one thing I would suggest is a use a large breed puppy formula for atleast the first six months because they control calcium to prevent join problems,. (most do not realize that puppies can not regulate calcium when young and too much leads to boint and joint developmental issue be don't supplement a young puppy with dairy.

c In dog that are prone to food allergies they will become allergic to the protein source they are most exposed to, One protein source is not more hypoallergenic than another. ; What every pet owner should know about food allergies
"There are no diets that are completely “hypoallergenic”, meaning that they will not cause allergies. The closest we have to this kind of a diet are the hydrolyzed diets that can be purchased through veterinarians. Dogs and cats can be allergic to pretty much any protein or carbohydrate ingredient that can be found in pet food. Feeding a diet with duck, kangaroo, lamb, or venison doesn’t prevent food allergies, it just makes it likely that if your pet develops one, it will be to that protein instead of something more common like pork or chicken. Likewise, there is no evidence that continually changing (rotating) diet ingredients prevents food allergies, but it definitely can limit diet choices to try to diagnose them (since every ingredient your pet has eaten before is no longer available to be used in a dietary elimination trial). "

" Not cereal which is where some dogs can have problems. Cereal is just bulk - filler. " there is only one macro ingredient not listed on a dog food bag. Charbohydrate. Dogs have no functional need for carbohydrate though the can use it as a fuel source, However in Dog Fat is a much better and effcient fuel source. That said it does have a definative prpose and it is not a filler but an esential ingredient in Kibble. Kibble requires a Minimium of 20% starch be formed. So all kibble contain huge sums of not nutrionally required ingrediants.


House training. I have never seen a basset hound achieve what I would call housetrained in anything less than 6 months 1 year or more is typical

keys to successfull housetraing

a. control freedom. to prevent accident. Unless directly suppervised they should be confined

b. ridged schedule which included access to food , water, play exercise. This creates predictabilty when the dog has to go. Most people do not also understand the effect activity has on urine product. Ya often here :why does my puppy pee in the house when he was just out 10-20 minute ago, see ClickerSolutions Training Articles -- Housetraining Your Puppy
"Do not rely on a puppy to tell you when it's time to go out. That is expecting too much responsibility and communication at too early an age. It is up to you, the adult human, to know when he needs to go out. Watch his activity level and the clock.

A 12 wk puppy who is busy playing may need to urinate every 15-20 minutes, whereas a resting puppy might go for an hour, and a sleeping puppy can go 8 hours at night. Activity makes urine! Activity makes urine! Repeat this 10 times, slowly. This is a very important lesson for new puppy owners.

Go to the place where you want him to eliminate, and be as boring as possible. Stay in one place. This is not a walk for sniffing and exploring."


With a basset puppy cut the time in 1/2



a lack of accident is not an indication of housetraining success but mearly the required first step need to housetrain.

c. The other area housetraining often falls apart is lack of a clear signal that works for the dog to let you know it needs to go out. Rather than hoping the dog finds one that works most find it easier to actual train a specific behavior for this task see, ClickerSolutions Training Treasures -- House Training: Ring My Bell!
 

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There are a lot of opinions, and experience, but my less than one year of a basset but more of other breeds says this on housetraining.

I made sure the dog went out before we went to sleep and I set my alarm for 6 am to minimise the time she had to spend in control. Only twice did she have a present for me to clean up when I woke. The best puppy I have ever had for this. The puddles were a bit longer to stop, but after a week of clean starts, I put my alarm back to 6.20am, a week later I was back to normal of 6.45 am. I may be retired but years of being at work before 7 am means I can not lie in.

Never punish a dog for bowel or bladder presents, concentrate on praise when they get it right, and with a basset a treat goes a long way to reaffirm the praise.

Puppies are hard work , but worth it.

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