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Chloe is a bloodhound/basset and a little over 6 years old. She is very smart, but allot of times when I let her out in front (which is rare) her nose goes to the ground and she keeps going. Any other time when I call her from the back yard (which is fenced) she comes right away. What is the deal?

Here is something else I don't understand. When she has to go to the bathroom she will find me in the house and stare at me. Then When I say "Do you have to go pee pee? she still stares at me. Then I open the door for her to go out, she still doesn't move. Fine! I shut the door and go back to what I was doing. Two seconds later she walks to the door and lays down.

I get up again, open the door and she goes out to go to the bathroom. Is she controlling me? I know she is. I swear she knows exactly what she is doing. She never barks if she wants something, SHE JUST STARES AT ME. Like I know what she wants? 99% of the time I do, but she has to do it her way, not mine.

Dinner time? SHE STARES AT ME
Bed time? SHE STARES AT ME (She sleeps next to me)
Pee Pee time? SHE STARES AT ME.

Also, I cannot break her from jumping on people when they visit me. She is 64 pounds! How do you break a dog from jumping on people?

So many questions, sorry about that. Could use a little help.

Thanks all for listening to my rant, especially my first post
Look at her pics I uploaded. She is so sweet

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I let her out in front (which is rare) her nose goes to the ground and she keeps going. Any other time when I call her from the back yard (which is fenced) she comes right away. What is the deal?
You answered your own question. One of the biggest mistakes owner/trainers make when working with dogs is not training against distractions. The back yard is familiar nothing new haappens there very little distraction, While the front is a whole new experience of scents on wonders.

The same thing also happens when for example the dog is taught to sit in the kitchen. Well asking the dog to sit in the living room is a whole new context for the dog and in most dogs mind makes it a total new request that they have no idea how to respond to. It is why who need to train in a variety of locations and distraction to generalize the behavior to all situations and distraction. It is an ongoing process.


The Sit Test
The purpose of the "Sit Test" is to provide an objective assessment of performance-reliability for basic obedience commands. Why? So that instead of reprimanding the dog for "misbehaving," the trainer steps back and reflects on the real reasons for the dog's "disobedience," i.e., lack of proofing and reliability training prior to pattern training. Many trainers have an inflated view of their dog's reliability because during practice, performance reliability is assessed by subjective means. The trainer tends to remember the good and forget the bad. Moreover, following an objective assessment of reliability during obedience trials, failed exercises are frequently dismissed as bad luck.

...Very few dogs average over 97%, even when performing a well-rehearsed choreography. The Sit Test magnifies problems that occur in competition, when the dog's immaculate obedience or conformation patterns break down because of minor variations in proceedure, or distractions in the environment, e.g., applause from an adjoining ring, or a photographer tossing a lure.
Even minor changes in routine can produce dramatic decreases in reliability. For example, it is easy to demonstrate that an OTCh dog doesn't really know what "Sit" means. Dogs are extremely fine discriminators. If the dog has been taught to "Sit" for supper in the kitchen, or to heel-sit and front and finish in obedience class, that's precisely what the dog learns -- to sit in the kichen and in class. The same dog may occasionally not sit in the obedience ring, while playing in the park, or while greeting visitors at the front door. The dog must be trained in an infinite number of situations for it to generalise the "Sit" command to all instances. (This is in marked contrast to people, many of whom will generalise at the drop of a hat - sometimes from a single experience).
Is she controlling me? I know she is
Quite the contrary. she is performing the routine as she has been inadvertantly taught.

SHE JUST STARES AT ME. Like I know what she wants? 99% of the time I do, but she has to do it her way, not mine.
Nope she stare because she has learned it works with you If you where not reliable with the stare and more reliable with a different signal/cue she would use that. Dog do what works it is that simple, she stares because it works. If you want her to do something else then teach her a more appropriate cue while ignoring the inappropriate one.

How do you break a dog from jumping on people?
dogs jump because it works at getting them the attention they seek. Most techniques to stop dogs from jumping are counter productive because they simply inadverently reward the dog from jumping. Dog jumps human puts knee into dogs chest is not punishment for a dog seeking attention it is a reward and actual increase the odds the dog will do it again. The best method involves not rewarding the dog for jumping and to teach a more appropriate behavior that is reward ie remaining calm with four feet on the ground. How long it takes to retrain the behavior is in porportion to how long the jumping behavior has been inadvertently rewarded.

Quick Fix for a Jumping Dog

Stopping Negative Behavior Positively

The first step in changing undesired behavior is to identify the behaviors that you want to change. Every time you interact with your dog, ask yourself, "Is my dog doing something I want him to do?"

The second step is to define what you want your dog to do. If your dog is doing something you don't like, define what you want him to do instead. It's not enough to say "I want him to stop doing what he's doing." He could stop doing what he's doing and choose to do something worse - and then you'd have to stop that as well. It's faster to define what you want him to do from the beginning. For example:
  • I want my dog to hold a sit-stay while I prepare his food. (Not "I want my dog to stop jumping on me when I prepare his food.")
  • I want my dog to sit at the top or bottom of the stairs when a person is walking up or down.
  • I want my dog to lie quietly on a mat while the family eats dinner.
  • I want my dog to lie quietly on a mat when I have visitors.
behaviors like jumping are often a symptom of a much broader problem. That is a lack of impulse control. Teaching impulse control can help in a myriad of other situations.

Guidelines for Teaching Self Control

In general a dogs behavior reflects one ability as a trainer. Also keep in mind every interaction you have with the dog it is learning. If every time it goes out to pee involves an elaborate routine it learns that is how it is to be done and reinforced for doing so, making it much more likely to happen the next time as well. Next time you open the door to let her out. After asking She should not be given an option to decide if she stays in or not. Even if it means she is carried out. You must break the routines you do not want. and actively train a new routine that you do.


2. POSITIVE does not equal PERMISSIVE. This is the guiding principle of Say Yes Dog Training. You must be consistent. If a behaviour is acceptable at home (example the dog choosing not to lie down when told) it is also acceptable during work. Approach training and home life with a patient disposition and a strict application of what is and isn’t acceptable. Training happens 24 hours a day 7 days a week; your dog is always learning regardless if you are actively training or not!

3. Behaviours are shaped by CONSEQUENCES. Be aware of what is reinforcing your dog. Review and alter your list of reinforcers as your dog grows up, especially the “activities that reinforce” section.

...5. Be aware of what RESPONSE you are rewarding each time you give out a cookie or toy. What did you click—did you see eyes? Did you want to see eyes when your dog is performing that skill? What did you intend to reinforce? Does the dog know?

9. Whenever frustration sets in remind yourself that “YOUR DOG IS A MIRROR IMAGE OF YOUR ABILITIES AS A TRAINER”. Only when you take ownership of your dog’s shortcomings will you be able to turn them into attributes.
just keep in mind training is always easier in th theoritical than the practical. In practice you need to make adjustment etc base on the dogs reaction. in reality this is what seperates the really good trainer for those that aren't the ability to adjust quickly and appropriately to the dogs actual behavior.

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Well you are a lucky man to have a beautiful basset blood hound like Chloe. Thanks for posting her picture. Good Luck with the retraining! I was trained by my basset, she was more persistant than me!
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