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In another thread about advice for new Basset owners, Leash training was mentioned by Booya.

How would one go about this properly. I am dreading going for a walk with Mollie B and she just doesn't want to go further (like going to my work) or worse, in the road and a car suddenly comes around the corner.

She is used to being on the leash, but of course she will suddenly stop if she feels she is being led.
 

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Tim, before you leave on your walk, fill your pocket with some extra special yummy dog treats, and lure Mollie B on her walk. Ahhh, the power of food! Martha :lol:
 

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I have almost zero chance of leading José someplace he doesn't want to go - whether it is towards home at the tail end of a walk, or to go potty outside before I go to work (he's just not a morning person). What I do is simply 'push' him by walking behind him, and giving his rump a little bump with my shins, each step I take. That eliminates the classic Basset Stall & Reverse move that they use so often.

Maybe age works wonders, because José at 5 years old is a model citizen on his leash. My 70 yr old mom takes him for a walk every day to the park (where everyone now knows him by name) & gets compliments galore at how well behaved he is (if they only knew....)

I did get a harness for him to keep him from slipping out of his collar & to also allow him to more easily train me to run when he wants to run :blink: I keep him on the sidewalk so he doesnt utilize the Flat Basset move, but I keep him home when it is too hot because the poor guy just gets tired!

Oh -- and I almost forgot, I got him used to 'hurry up' and I use that when he needs to get his butt in gear. If we are crossing the street and there is a car or a car waiting to turn into a driveway... I say "hurry up" kind of quickly and at first I would give his leash a soft jerk and hastily pulled him along. Now he knows to gimme a little jog when I say that.

Good luck!
 

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I am dreading going for a walk with Mollie B and she just doesn't want to go further (like going to my work) or worse, in the road and a car suddenly comes around the corner.[/b]

1. don't walk farther than she is willing to go. intially keep the walks very short. Leave her wanting for more

2. Most One dog strikes {ods(s)} occur on the return leg. Wayss to prevent this are vary the route and the ruturn route. To make a route that pass the destination multiple time that way turning toward or appoaching the usual destination does not automatically signal the end of the walk and/or make the destination more rewarding than the walk itself. Treat, play or anything else your dog really enjoys upon reaching your destination can change a ODS to a march toward the finish.


of course none of these answers has anything to do with leash training. for that consider a "basic" obedience class. some links on the subject

Targeting and Loose Leash Walking

Loose Leash Walking

Advice for Loose Leash Walking

Loose Leash Walking: The Total Picture
Loose leash walking is one of the most challenging behaviors to teach. It's not a particularly "natural" behavior -- there's nothing equivalent in the dog world -- and walking relative to something else is a non-discrete behavior, which means there's no obvious "right" or "wrong" -- the trainer decides what's acceptable. So it's tough on the dog AND tough on the trainer.

That said, it is possible to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. However, to be completely fair -- and to give yourself (and your dog) the highest probability of success -- you need to look at the whole picture. Very often the trainer considers only his own agenda -- walk nicely on this leash -- and doesn't consider the dog's wants and needs in the situation. [/b]
The Correct Way To Teach The “Heel” Command

HEELING DOT COM

How to Teach Your Puppy to Walk on a Leash

Dealing with a Leash-pulling Dog
 

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like i said, Booya had already been trained to walk on a leash when i got him (his owners were planning on showing him), so i'm no expert on the subject.

the only thing i can tell you are the things i've noticed Boo respond to. for example, i've noticed that if i hold the leash high and directly above his neck (as opposed to leaving slack), he is much more cooperative. also, at least early on it is necessary to use a choke chain - when you're having to pull on the leash a non-choke chain will actually hurt the dog more.

also, i noticed that short, fast, but not hard tugs on the collar indicate to Boo which way he needs to go.

but like most Bassets, if Boo hears a sound or sees a person on the street he doesn't like, and decides it's time to turn back, it's very difficult to convince him otherwise. one technique i've used to help him change his mind is to start trotting - when he sees me trot he seems to forget all about whatever it was that made him decide it was time to go home...

one thing i've read is that when you're training him to walk always have him on the same side (usually the right side).
 
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