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. None of which changes my sense that I need to understand if I can what is going on in B.'s
There is no way to ever know what is going on in a dogs head, we can speculate but that often lead to the wrong conclusions and makes things harder not eaiser. Stick with what you know and that is the behavior, not why the behavior is occuring.

What is known:
1. B has a low tollerance for being stared at.

2. Many/Most/ALL Dog v Dog incidents occured Near Enterances

3. He has a history of nipping


1. threshold of staring that causes a reaction i.e. proximity of the starer, length of stare etc.

2. While proximity to enterance seams to be a tigger it is not clear that is exclusively this proximity or if the proximity creates a behavior in the others that B is reacking to. For instance Is coco less sure of the actions of B. when near enterance and therefor watches him more closely i.e. stare?

3. any other triggers.

4. B.'s understanding of doggie communication, is he socially inept with other dogs?

Keep in mind You are never going to know everything and if you wait until you do you have create more situation in which B has reacted and been self rewarded for doing so making treatment harder. You just have to formulate a plan as best as you can with what is known and not know.

For instance You could work on a counter conditioning Program for both the staring and entrances simultaniously. Work exclusively on staring and use management to prevent problems at enterances until the staring sensitivity is overcome. Then see if the enterance issues still exist? There are pro's and cons to any approach way your options.

You also need to remember that dogs are poor generalizer Just because a dog will tollerate staring from you in your home does not mean it will tollerate it from another dog or stranger: or from you in a different setting etc. You will need to work on this progressively in a multiple locations and incorporate the help of others as well.

thing you need to know

1. an understanding of desenitization and counter-conditioning both theoritical and practical.

2. ability to read stress level in a dog, b in particular.

As mentioned above outside professional help is always appropriate

other resourse

By a noted expert on canine body language, notably “calming signals.” These are signals dogs give eachother - and humans - that denote stress. These are the dogs’ attempt to defuse situations that otherwise might result in fights or aggression.

13,157 Posts
I have been working with him much the way I would with a puppy
That can be a big problem. During the growth phase that puppies are socialized they are very open to new experience and do not in general approach them with fear and intrepidation contrary to an adult dog. If he is become stressed it is becuase you are asking too much of him: putting him in too close of contact etc. The second thing is with puppies all we have to do show is that nothing bad happens in the socialization situation, As long as nothing bad happens they will not fear it in the future. However with an adult that is approach a situation with fear to begin with the fact nothing bad happen changes nothing with their emotional state in future situation because the still have that basal fear. You must actively change their preception. This is general done through clasical conditioning. Say if instead of going in the pets store you stand 50-100 feet away from the enterance with B. Every time a dog nears the enterance he gets a cookie. Over time he will for a positive association with dogs approaching the enterance of the pet store and look forward to it. This is the densensitization part of counter-conditioning and desenitivation. With puppies that are more open to such new experience flooding is often used and is a common practice of some television dog trainers but it comes with very high risk when used with adult dogs
from link above
When other therapies fail to quickly rid dogs of anxiety, discomfort and fear of a particular aversive event, trainers sometimes turn to "flooding" the dog with the event that induces the emotional impairment. If the dog fears gunfire, a trainer might anchor the dog close to a firing range; if a rancher's dog fears horses, he may put his dog in a horse stable yard for a week. Sometimes the treatment works, but quite often it does not—and when it does not, a dog may turn into an emotional wreck.
This technique is akin to getting a person over their fear of spiders by throwing him in a closet with a 1000 tarantulas. General what happens when you open the door is not a person that is no longer afraid of spiders but a quiver mass that may never fully recover from the experience

Flooding Dog Aggression
Flooding in dog aggression occurs when a dog, especially a fear aggressive dog, is forced to be near whatever triggers the response. He is not permitted to escape or defend himself. For example, if a dog is scared of strange men you could flood him by putting a muzzle on him and then placing him in a room with three men he doesn't know. Being unable to fight or flee, he will eventually collapse emotionally.
The emotional collapse is mistaken for rehabilitation. The dog is actually even more horrified and likely to bite in the future. But he doesn't appear that way. So be careful when choosing a trainer or following advice. Flooding a dog will often provide the superficial appearance of success and can be done quickly, but it is not a long term solution. Lowering dog aggression requires commitment to a long term plan of counter-conditioning and desensitization that provides positive experiences and associations with the items he had been aggressive toward.

Guidelines For Working With a Fearful Dog
Regardless of what your dog is afraid of, or why s/he is afraid, resist any advice or temptation to force your dog to ‘face’ its fears (this is called flooding). One day that may be appropriate but until you know that your dog is ready, you risk making the problem worse. Respect your dog’s fears, they’re not silly, unfounded or senseless. Your dog is not being a coward. Your mission (if you choose to accept it) is to help your dog learn to enjoy the things that it currently fears. It will not happen overnight and you should not expect that your dog will suddenly come around (it might, but its best to be prepared for the more likely scenario that it doesn’t).
If you have developed a good relationship with your dog you will become its source of confidence and courage. When your dog trusts you, you can begin to ask it to deal with uncomfortable situations, and s/he is more likely to be willing and able to comply. Learn about how your dog’s body language conveys its feelings and you’ll be even better at giving your dog the kinds of experiences it needs.
If your dog is afraid of people, be prepared to protect your dog from well-meaning friends and strangers. Initially the best approach to take with a fearful dog is to put as little pressure as possible on it. This means avoiding direct eye contact, not talking to the dog if it shows discomfort or fear when spoken to and handling the dog as little and as gently as possible. It doesn’t matter what your intentions are, your dog will still be afraid. Your goal is to help the dog to be in the presence of people, however peripherally, and not feel fear. Ask people to ignore your dog until it is ready to have strangers interact with it.
Triggers & Thresholds

When working with any dog, rewards are a key component of training. When working with fearful dogs high value rewards become even more important for their role in helping to change how your dog feels about a given situation, person, place or thing.
but as a single parent with a new business I have to watch my budget.
If cost is an issue with some of the reference I provided Send me a PM and I can provide you my copies

13,157 Posts
jealous of Coco
again it is better to stick with the actual behavior than attach an emotion to it. This is not so say B is not jealous but rather even if he is noing such does nothing to advance his treatment, but a belief that he is when that is not the case can be detrimental

Keep in mind I have offend many when they take what I psot personnally. I now nothing of your backround etc, But even if I did it would not likely effect what I post. That is because answering specific question for a specific individual there are many lurkers present and the future that will have similar situation or question. So the answer is gear toward the lowest common denominator and often what the more experience owner with think is common sense and put down when it is not assumed is not the case for the less experienced.

IMHO the blaming of behavioral problem in rescue dogs on abuse is general a streach. Poor breeding ie genetics, and poor early socialization, environment are far more the cause even combined or seperate than any sort of deliberate abuse. Again the only reason I mention this is because many assume abuse then go on to make excuses for the dog rather than work at fixing the problem, While it may be fun and entertaining to speculate at the cause of the problem know why does not actual help in solving the problem whereas focusing on the actual behavior can

On the behaviorist front, something to consider, many rescues make available funds for a behavior (usually one the rescue has used in the past) available to fosters for treatment/evaluation when necessary.
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