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I know this isn't basset-related, but my neighbor has a real problem that I want to help her with. She has a border collie/aussie mix. On their walks, Maggie (the dog) will lunge at other dogs, horses, deer, pretty much anything she sees (she's not trying to attack--she's just leaping forward). She's so strong that many times she's pulled my neighbor off her feet. When she's not lungeing, Maggie doesn't pull. So I was wondering if a Halti, Gentle Leader or Sensi-ble halter would stop her lungeing? If you think it will work, which would be the best? Thanks for your help.
 

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I know this isn't basset-related, but my neighbor has a real problem that I want to help her with. She has a border collie/aussie mix. On their walks, Maggie (the dog) will lunge at other dogs, horses, deer, pretty much anything she sees (she's not trying to attack--she's just leaping forward). She's so strong that many times she's pulled my neighbor off her feet. When she's not lungeing, Maggie doesn't pull. So I was wondering if a Halti, Gentle Leader or Sensi-ble halter would stop her lungeing? If you think it will work, which would be the best? Thanks for your help.[/b]

While I am not a head halter fan in this instance it will give more control tha a sensi-ble harness. Keep in mind however a head halter is a tool not a cure. The lunging is a sign of poor impulse control. Unless that is worked on she will continue to lunge regarldless of the tools. Most lunging and such is a reaction to fustration that is restraint of the lead among other factors. Working on the problem involves desinitizing/counter conditioning. which mean practicing and rewarding the dog for things she normally lunges at but at distance she does not lunge. Slowly lowering those distance over time.


FWIW Most people I know prefer the GL over the halti It is stronger, comes in more sizes and more easily adjusted.
a small practical and cheap reference on this technique is Catious Canine

the following two articles explain the lungingand how it starts, knowing this is the first step in not making it worse. Again if you have not already done so access to the articles requires that you register with the site. There is not fee, there is no spam or selling info etc, THe copyright owner of the articles is very protective of her intellectual property hence the controled access.

to register

GGRESSION: A Case History with Harry T

Handling On-lead Aggression
 

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Thanks Mike. I appreciate all the info and the advice. I want to re-emphasize, though, that this dog is not lungeing aggressively. She's just jumping forward, but she's so powerful and quick it catches my neighbor by surprise and pulls her down. I think I am going to get her one of the halters as a gift before she breaks a leg. And I'll read the articles you've posted and offer her advice on stopping Maggie from doing this. But I don't hold out much hope of my neighbors changing her behavior--they are not very strict with her.
 

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Thanks Mike. I appreciate all the info and the advice. I want to re-emphasize, though, that this dog is not lungeing aggressively. ...-they are not very strict with her.[/b]


... 1. The behavior is the behavior what is called leash aggression is based on what it appears to some people the intent of the dog in general is not to cause harm etc.

2, it is not a strict or loose but consistence and taking the time to train. This is the problem with some tools like head halters however. Fustration with a situation is general required to get anyone to train by lower the fustration level the training aspect becomes less likely. And the dog becomes at greater risk of sustaining a neck injury
 

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that dog needs to get off leash and go visit a dog park maybe. maybe a nature run if a dog park isn't available. personally, I disagree with the use of these torture devices such as the halti torture device. Its a personal issue i have. its a difficult proposition. not enough details.
 
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