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Hi! This is my first real on here. We adopted a 1-2 year old male basset hound from a basset hound rescue 2 weeks ago, his name is Finn. He is a sweet boy about 90% of the day. But, at some point everyday (sometimes 2 or 3 times) since we've had him he will all of a sudden want to bite. It's kind of play biting, but kind of not. It does hurt, and leaves marks and bruises. Is this a usual behavior for a rescue dog?

He bears down really hard and won't let go easily even as we tell him "no" and "no bite" very firmly.

We have 2 daughters (ages 10&12). It scares them when he does this. He's gotten them several times too. He also does it when we have people over. Especially younger kids, if they run and are playing he will jump up on them, bite their arms, feet, hands, pants, shoes, jackets, etc. It's scary for the kids.

I think it starts off as playful, because he's excited, but then he quickly gets stronger and more forceful in his biting and I eventually end up crating him.

He's enrolled in training, but I want some other opinions and recommendations from other basset owners.

We want to teach him this is unacceptable behavior. Please help!!

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he has incompletely instilled bite inhibition., The good new is that he is not causing any real damage . The bad new is at this age bite inhibition cannot be reliable installed. You are correct at issue is a lack of self control when getting overexcited. The problem is you are intervening way to lat. you need to teach self control in these situations. Which means ending or lowering the intensity of the games much sooner before he is biting hard.

see read the entire two articles exerpted here

"No topic engenders such a wide range of conflicting advice than whether or not it
is advisable to play physical-contact games with dogs, e.g., play-fighting, tag and
tug o' war. Some breeders and trainers are vehemently opposed to these
games, feeling they make the dog uncontrollable and more aggressive. Other
breeders and trainers, however, feel frequent games make for a better
companion. Certainly, there are pros and cons of doing almost anything with a
dog and this includes roughhousing. Without a doubt, misguided and/or
inadequately informed owners can very quickly turn a good dog bad by allowing
contact games to get out of control. On the other hand, a thinking owner can
derive so many benefits from properly playing doggy games.

...Alternatively, allowing a dog to play willy-nilly, without instruction or
guidance would no doubt make him more difficult to control. Control-problems
are threefold:
1. the owner allows the intensity of play to increase to the point where it may
be physically dangerous
2. the owner can no longer stop the dog form playing and
3. the owner allows the dog to initiate unsolicited play sessions. The owner
barely knew which end of the whistle to blow.
So, why not just stop playing these games altogether? Well, a good class
instructor quickly learns to anticipate a lot about dog behavior and a whole lot more about human nature. Firstly that dogs, especially adolescent dogs, are
going to attempt to play this way with people anyway. In fact, much of a dog's
waking existence and certainly most of his playtime focus on mouthing (and/or
biting) objects both inert and alive. Consequently, it makes sense to take time to
teach the critter rules. And secondly, that many owners, especially men and
children and extra-especially boys (ranging in age from two to fifty-two years old),
are going to play these games with dogs anyway. And so, it similarly make
sense to teach owners how to be better canine coaches, so they may correctly
referee Rover and reap the many benefits these games have to offer."

the first game I like for teaching self control is this one

Keep in , mind the way most paly with dogs it the cause of such behavior. When the dog start to get excited they ramp up as we moving more frantically squealing, etc, Which only signal the dog to play even harder. You need to teach them and supervise that they do exactly the opposite. Stop moving or moving very deliberately and slowly. When Playing with you dogs I will often ramp up play then stop, then begin moving very slowly to pet the dog. If the dog moves to bite the hand etc. I retract the hand slowly then start again. Once the dog allows me to pet them I begin the games again. and repeat. The teaches the dog to settle quickly to be able to do what they want .

ClickerSolutions Training Articles --
" But seriously folks, what is a dog owner/guardian to do during this phase?

The absolute first thing a person must do is understand what adolescence is.
(I posted part of this about a week ago. Forgive the repeat.)

Every puppy of every breed -- and every adolescent of every species that raises its young -- goes through the same thing at adolescence. Adolescence is an important, necessary transition period between childhood and adulthood. As infants, these creatures were completely helpless, completely dependent upon their mothers for everything -- food, comfort, safety. In childhood, the creatures begin practicing the skills they'll need later.
However, they do it right there with mom in sight, so mom can protect or help as necessary. They instinctively know they aren't able to take care of themselves, so they stick close.

The eventual goal is, of course, adulthood. Complete independence. Mom won't be there to make decisions -- or to alleviate them of responsibility for their mistakes. The real world will be applying consequences, and those can be harsh (even fatal). The animal will, perhaps, become a parent herself, and must have all the knowledge and skills to raise the next generation. Adolescence is the transition between the safe practice of childhood and the
independent, butt-on-the-line reality of adulthood. Adolescence is the time when "Because I said so" simply isn't good enough anymore -- Nature *demands* that they test boundaries and consequences and decide for themselves what decisions they want to make. It's not dominance or rebellion. It's growing up.

Yes, even pet dogs *have* to go through this period. "But he won't be making decisions -- I will," you protest. Actually, I doubt it. Unless you're planning to be there, directing his every move 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, you need your dog to know how to make decisions. More importantly, you want him to make the decision *you* want. And you want him to make this decision even when you're not there to back up the decision."
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