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I was not sure whether I should work wit him so he does not do it for s long or not.
Al depends on what the plan is. Keep in mind stoping the barking does not solve the problem Thake the place of the other dogs and engaging the pup in play does. but if you do not want the puppy to learn that barking is the way to get someone to play ie you or the dogs then you need to teach him a more appropriate behavior that works. It does no good to teach the dog to sit quitely in front of you to intiate play if in the end that does not work as well.

The other dogs by ignoring the barking may teach the pup that barking does not work to get them to play however it does not change the basic desire. The pup is likely to try a vairiety of different tacts to see if one will work some are likely to be even more annoying for either you or the dogs involved.
 

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have a feeling his barking at them for long stretches will taper off because they do not give him the attention he wants. His bark
unless of course the ocassional give in in which case he is variably reinforced making ending the behavior via extinction nearly impossible. Also if the extinction does work I doubt his desire to play or engage them in play will deminish so he will simply seek out other behavior that might be more effective. ie humping, the big paw, squashing etc.

Whether you can tollerate the barking etc is what it comes down to however with all attention seeking behavior I find it better to be proactive than trying the extinction route if the ultimate goal is to end the behavior. For a human child perspective it is rather like the Comfort the crying baby vs ignoring it debate. Boith can if dones consistently however most can not follow the ignore/extenction protocol so it fails when the behavior is occiasionally rewarded.

Just trying to give you some ideas to expand your options and be more successful if you decided you want to stop the behavior.
 

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1. schedual time for play sleep eat etc on a schedual it is prefectly ok to confine a single dog to maintain that schedual.

2. be proactive in providing the plya the dog need so instead of looking toward the other dogs he looks to you, He need to learn this up to this point his outlet for physical stimulation has been littermate other dog so naturally this is where he will turn first even if rebuffed.

3. look at training a default differential behavior. shuch as sit or down which is reward without being asked for so the dog when in a guandry what to do to get attention is going to lean to behavior s that worke din the past and when that is an acceptable behavior you have done your job but that mean making a concious effort to reward such behavior wihich is easly ignored. It is very easy to ignore the good behavior if you reward it you will get more of it.

4. Look into interactive games for the puppy. When confined you can use thing like stuffed kongs and buster cubes or other treat dispensing toys to keep him self entertained. These thing in multi dog household can be problematic if multiple dog try an use thes toys at the same time.

5 reward the the behavior you do not want with a reward the dog does not want

Insights into Puppy mouthing
I Reward the dog. Just not with the Reward they would prefer

If for example the dog is jumping and nipping for attention I reward the Behavior. BUT I reward it with something like me going away. "Yippie, you win! I bet I know what you would like! Your Reward is my disappearance." I know that it is semantics on one level but on another level it is really a completely different methodology.

I don't do "penalty yards" (TM pending, Lana Horton). "You pull on the leash... Yippie! We get to walk backwards or stop." If the dog thinks I am an idiot... Great!

"Bob, you fool. I am not trying to get you to walk backwards. Hmmmm... what do I need to do to get this idiot to stop going the wrong direction???"

If my attitude remains that I am having a great time and even better if I am acting like I think that the Undesired Reward is what the dog wants I am not setting up a conflict. But I am motivating the dog to reexamine its choices. I am encouraging the dog to try and educate me as to the best thing to do. And when the dog figures out that biting and nipping me is the stupidest way to get me to play they will look for a better way. And when they think that the reward I offer is not worth the effort it weakens the probability of that behavior continuing to be offered.


I forgot how old barny is but I thought he was a young ie under 16 weeks if that is the case the adult dogs are likely to be more tollerant of his boorish behavior for a while but that will change and sometime dramatically

see Puppy licence and its Loss
Many pet owners are quite shocked to find that suddenly at about 4 ½ to 5 months of age adult dogs will appear to ‘turn’ on their cute and adorable puppy….it also comes as quite a surprise to the pup! So what’s probably going on here?
Puppy license and adult behavior–STOP SEPARATING PLAY.


also to some extent it is in the chii's hand it may learn from the other dogs how to handle barney but I say as well how a dog and cat get a long is not so much the dog but the cat and how it reacts and acts toward the dog not the other way round and that is the case here but I would not hesitate to reward the chi for telling barney off if it happens to help incourage the behavior. bu if barney is young the chi but be giving him more license than he will get latter on in life as well.
 

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I have been taking turns walking my dogs with him and they interact alot outside so he is barking less today because they are hanging around him more.
that what I mean by being pro active over time hopefully it will become even less still but a lot depends on how the other dogs react to the barking. If he is rewarded for it it will continue Husbands and children are not the only ones to sabotoge training how the other dogs react can as well
 
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