by Craig Green

Tally-Ho: September/October 1997

This month, I’d like to discuss tracking leads. According to AKC rules, the handler must follow at least 20 feet behind the dog, and the lead may be no more than 40 feet long. Some kind of marker or indicator at 20 feet is required so the judges can see it.

I will describe two kinds of tracking leads I have used, illustrated by three pictures. The first, which I use with most Basset Hounds, is made from parachute chord. The second is made from 1/2 inch cotton webbing, which I’ve used with a Rottweiler, a Border Collie, and a strong-pulling Basset Hound. I prefer the parachute cord for most dogs, and it is usually easier to use for most people. You can get parachute cord in any army surplus or camping store, and the webbing can be found in the R.C. Steele (obedience) catalog.

The first photograph shows the snap end of these two leads, as well as the end of a piece of parachute cord, and a ruler for scale. The black parachute cord in the middle has several solid strands inside a round tubular covering, for extra strength. I don’t recommend flat cords, without the strands inside. Nor do I recommend thick, heavy nylon leads.

The second photograph shows the two tracking leads with their 20-foot markers and the end loops. The end loop is useful to act as a big handful of something, so you will clearly know when you are at the end. It’s also useful for crocheting the lead for transport. The marker on the parachute cord is tied so it will not slip, whereas the ribbon on the 1/2 inch cotton webbing is sewn on.

The final photo shows the leads crocheted for transport without getting tangled up. To crochet the lead, stretch it out in a straight line, and begin with the loop at the end opposite the snap. Put two or three fingers through the loop and grab the lead a couple of inches above the loop, pulling it through. Then do this with the second loop, and so on. Continue this process until the entire length is crocheted, and connect the snap to the last loop. This is not easy to communicate without showing you in person, but I suggest you ask someone to show you a simple crochet stitch that comes apart easily. Be sure to connect the snap at the end the same way each time so you will get into the habit of attaching it to undo easily and quickly.

Handling the lead is a very important skill that all tracking trainers must learn. An important goal when tracking is to keep a steady tension on the lead, without jerking or otherwise discouraging or confusing the dog. It is a good idea to un-crochet the lead and stretch it out for its entire length, making sure all the tangles are out, before you even get the dog out of the car. If the crocheting is done correctly, all you have to do is unsnap the end and pull, and the whole thing will come undone easily. If you have to manually undo each loop, you unconnected it the wrong way.

The tracking equipment I’ve described in this series is extremely important. A comfortable harness, a well-marked lead of the proper length and the skill to use them without interrupting the dog’s concentration will help you get that next tracking title.