by Kay Green
Tally-Ho: May/June 1984
This article continues a miniseries on problem-solving techniques. In Parts 1, 11, and III of this series the following topics were covered: dog and self observation, knowing what is right for you and your dog, being open-minded, developing a sense of timing, arranging to have someone else observe you and your dog work to help solve problems, the importance of footwork, the down-stay, getting the most out of fun matches, and the first half of a detailed discussion of the different types of training equipment. In this article I will complete the discussion on training equipment, including different training collars, the jumping stick, and the many uses for the baby gate.
Training Equipment
Listed below are descriptions of different training collars with a brief discussion of each one's specific use. Often, different collars will elicit different responses based on a particular dog's physical build, temperament, energy level, and sensitivity to corrections. I believe there is a place in dog training for just about all known training collars. However, if you use a collar that is not right for your dog over an extended period of time, you may just wind up with a severe training and attitude problem. Many people who are new to the sport of obedience do not know how to select training equipment for their particular dog, and this often leads to trouble. They buy the first collar they see in the store and then wonder why their dog is not responding in a positive manner. This section on training collars should give you some idea of what collars are generally best for what kinds of dogs. This way, if you need to experiment with different collars, you can be aware of positive and negative responses and can adjust your training program and equipment accordingly.
I do not personally advocate any particular collar for all occasions. You need to be open-minded, flexible, and sensitive to your dog's needs and to know when a change in equipment is indicated. I own all of the collars discussed in this article and have used every one of them at one time or another over the years. I usually start a new dog in obedience with a guidance collar and then later, if needed, switch to a correction or stimulation collar. As I describe each collar I will specify which ones are guidance collars, which ones are correction collars, and which ones are stimulation collars. For example, one of my current Novice bassets started out on the dead ring of the nylon choke collar (guidance collar) for the learning phase of obedience. After several months it became apparent to me that a bit more control was needed for this particular large, high-energy, and somewhat insensitive basset, so I changed to the live ring of a nylon parachute cord choke collar (correction collar). I only used live-ring corrections for a couple of training sessions to gain control, and then I switched back to the dead ring. I can still go back to the live ring at any time if necessary, but I have found that the longer I train him the less I need to correct him. It takes longer to train a dog by problem solving and paying particular attention to your dog's needs; if you go through this process, however, the end result is usually a well-trained basset with a happy attitude (including a gay tail!).
Just because a correction collar helps to clean up a problem does not mean that you should use it in all areas of obedience training or for an extended period of time. Use only as much force as is needed to solve a problem and then back off! If you find that force is not solving the problem or is perhaps creating another problem, then force just may not be the answer. If a few jerks elicit a positive response (like teaching the slow-sitting dog to sit faster, for example), then as soon as the response is achieved, discontinue the corrections. If you find that jerking causes the dog to resist you, hang his head, or drop his tail, then he is more than likely telling you that the corrections are too harsh or that he does not understand why he is being corrected.
Thin Metal Choke Collar
The thin metal choke is a particularly effective collar for dogs who are insensitive, resistive to training, and not highly energetic. It seems to work well on the dogs for which food training and guidance don't work, and a regular choke collar only elicits resistance through the lead during and after corrections. The thin metal choke collar needs to be fitted rather snugly so that you can just barely get it over the dog's head by pulling first one ear through and then the other. The reason for that snug fit is so that the collar will stay as high up on the neck (toward the head) as possible. Dogs are more sensitive to corrections (and you have better leverage) when the collar is in this position, rather than down on the neck near the shoulders. You will find that you need to pull the collar up often, because it will slip down. This collar is used on the live ring with a quick jerk and immediate release. Many times a series of quick jerks and releases accompanied by a series of commands is particularly effective in getting your point across to the dog, For example, using a series of quick jerks and releases with the command "SIT" for each jerk can be very effective in cleaning up slow sits. THIS COLLAR IS NOT FOR ALL DOGS; IT MUST BE USED WITH DISCRETION!
Using this collar on the live ring on a very soft and sensitive dog would probably be disastrous. Before you use it, first think about yourself and your dog and discuss the possibility of its use with an experienced, knowledgeable, and open-minded instructor! As with any training technique or equipment, it is important to remember that if your dog shows any negative responses, then stop using the technique or equipment immediately.
Regular Metal Choke Collar
The regular metal choke collar is a popular collar used by many obedience trainers. When used for corrections, however, it rarely gives satisfactory results and usually causes the dog to display resistance and resentment. Sally Terroux taught me that this collar works best if it is used to stimulate instead of to correct. The collar should be fitted very loosely so that it hangs down around the dog's neck near the shoulders. Large, smooth links are ideal because the collar can slide smoothly when pulled tight and releases quickly and easily as well. The sound that the collar makes when it is jiggled, or gently jerked and released, is what stimulates the dog, Using the regular metal choke collar to stimulate a dog works especially well when teaching the "fast" during heeling. This collar does not work on all dogs, but, if property used, it is not a harsh collar and is pretty safe to try on the soft, sensitive, and low-energy dogs.
Snake Choke Collar
The snake choke collar is seen more often in conformation than in obedience because it gives the handier some measure of control without cutting the dog's coat as much as a regular choke collar can. It is also a more attractive collar than the regular metal choke collar and comes in either gold or silver tone. It is not particularly effective as a stimulation or corrective collar, but it is attractive for exhibiting in either conformation or obedience. I usually exhibit my Open and Utility dogs with this type of collar simply because I feel that it is more attractive than other collars. By the time I am ready to exhibit in the advanced classes, I have worked out motivation and control issues and do not need any special collar in the ring. I do not, however, use this collar in Novice exhibiting because I personally prefer a collar that fits snugly so that the lead, attached to the dead ring of the collar at the back of the dog's neck, does not hang down and hit the dog in the face during on-lead heeling.
This collar is usually fitted rather loosely so as not to detract from the outline of the flow of the neck into the shoulders of the dog. The basset I am currently exhibiting in conformation is a large, high-energy, insensitive dog who loses his mind at the sight and smell of liver in the ring. I tried just about every kind of show lead and collar and found that the snake collar gives me the best control as well as allowing me to move him on a loose lead. There are harsher collars, but I only want to gain some control, not break his spirit. Another use for the snake collar is to motivate the low-energy dog to gait a little faster in the breed ring. This collar has no special use; rather, it is an attractive way to attach yourself to your dog for shows or when you are just out for a walk.
Nylon Choke Collar
The nylon choke collar is not a particularly effective collar to use for corrections. However, I like to use it to guide a dog through the learning phase of obedience training. I simply attach the rigid lead or leather lead to the dead ring so that no choke correction is possible. If you need to correct your dog physically because he is hyper or out-of-control, then this collar is probably not for you. There are other collars that are more effective and results-oriented. Many soft and very sensitive dogs do not mind a few corrective jerks on the dead ring of the nylon choke collar, and for those dogs this particular collar is most effective.
This collar needs to be fitted rather snugly so that it stays high up on the neck. If I am using a rigid lead during bonding in heeling (see last issue), then the dead ring (where the lead is attached) is usually riding on the right side of the dog's neck. If I am using a leather lead, then the lead is attached to the dead ring and both rings ride on the back of the dog's neck (instead of under the chin). I do this so that the swivel snap fastener cannot hit the dog in the face during heeling.
Nylon Buckle Collar
The nylon buckle collar is used in the same way and on the same kinds of dogs as the nylon choke collar. The advantage of the buckle collar is that you can get a better fit than with the nylon choke collar. The buckle collar is ideal for puppies and young adults who are still growing, because you can keep letting the collar out as needed. Choke collars should not be used on puppies under a year. Puppies bones and tissues are still soft and growing: live-ring jerks can be very dangerous and can do physical and psychological harm.
The nylon buckle collar is light-weight, inexpensive, can be washed, comes in a multitude of colors, and can be fitted perfectly. This collar (with tags) is ideal to leave on your dog at all times in case he should become separated from you. Never, never, never leave a choke collar of any kind on your dog when you are not working with him. Every year I hear stories from owners who have left choke collars on their dogs continuously and have found their pets choked to death!
Nylon Parachute Cord Choke Collar
The nylon parachute cord choke collar is the very best collar to use on the rowdy, insensitive, high-energy, anxious, aggressive, and/or out-of-control dogs. This particular collar has a calming effect on the dog, so generally it should not be used on low-energy dogs. This collar should be fitted very snugly, so that you can just barely get it over the dog's head by pulling one ear through at a time. It needs to be kept up high on the dog's neck and will usually stay there for long periods of time. The nylon parachute cord choke collar is made out of a very strong, thin nylon that does not give or stretch the way the loose-woven nylon choke collar does. It should be used on the live ring for corrections. It can, however, also be used as a guidance collar by attaching the lead to the dead ring.
The nylon parachute cord choke collar works particularly well on very anxious dogs who keep breaking stay exercises. It calms the hyper dog down instead of exciting him. You are defeating your purpose for correcting a high-energy or very anxious dog with a metal choke collar, because that type of collar stimulates the dog. Stimulation is the very last thing in the world that you want on stay exercises with an out-of-control dog!
Because of this particular collar's calming effect, it is an invaluable piece of training equipment to use on the aggressive dog. When we get a dog who shows aggressive tendencies in class, we immediately put the dog on the live ring of the nylon parachute cord choke collar. The owner has been given instructions on the collar's use and is prepared for the time when the dog makes an aggressive move. When that time comes, the dog is held with his front feet off the ground (not jerked) and told "NO!" in a very calm and controlled voice. Usually the dog will fight and make all kinds of noises, but the owner is not to stop the correction until the dog stops struggling. (When a dog stops struggling it is his way of telling you that you have won.) When this happens the dog is slowly lowered to the ground and told to "Heel." The dog does NOT receive any praise at this time. To praise a dog immediately after this little scene would reinforce that very obnoxious behavior. Heeling the dog around for a few moments while making sure that he is under control and then praising him reinforces the correct positive behavior--heeling! This scene is not pleasant to witness or be part of, but the alternatives are either to let the dog bite someone, completely isolate him, or have him euthanized without giving him a chance. Most aggressive dogs will try this only once--or twice at the most--before they give up such dangerous behavior. These dogs usually did not learn as puppies to be submissive to their owners. There are some dogs, however, who have organic disorders or brain damage. No matter what you do, these dogs will continue to attack people. Sadly, these dogs should be destroyed because they are a misery to themselves and a dangerous liability to their owners as well as to others in the community.
This collar is also a very effective way to correct dogs who do not respond to food training and who are bouncing off the walls during heeling. As with any type of correction on any type of collar, PRAISE must always accompany correction! Be careful how you use this collar, because the dog can really feel corrections more than with any other type of collar. Use it only when you must and always give the dog the opportunity to learn from the correction by immediately releasing the collar.
Point-Vollard Collar
Sally Davis was kind enough to, end me a Point-Vollard collar so that I could include it in this section on training equipment. This collar is made of thick woven nylon cord with a large swivel snap fastener attached to one end. The collar is fitted to the dog like a buckle collar and the snap is fastened to a ring that is loose on the collar. The lead is then attached to another ring that is attached to the end of the collar. In this way you can have the collar fit very snugly and still be able to give live-ring corrections. Dogs feel live-ring corrections much more if the collar fits high up on the neck (close to the head). Because the collar does not have to be large enough to go over the dog's head, it can be snug enough to stay where it is put for longer periods of time. Because the collar is made out of thick nylon cord, the corrections given the dog are not as harsh as those of a thin metal choke or nylon parachute cord choke collar. These collars can be ordered from the manufacturer in one-half inch sizes, or you can make your own. I ordered a size 19 for one of my current Novice dogs but could have used a smaller size. So if you order one be sure to order a one-half inch size smaller than your dog's neck measures. I think this collar definitely has a place in training, especially for dogs with broad heads and small necks. With this collar you can get a good snug fit for this type of dog and be able to keep the collar in the best position for corrections. One point to remember if you use this collar is that its use is prohibited in the ring at AKC shows. If you train with this collar, be sure to switch to another type of collar before you exhibit.
Pinch Collar
At one time the pinch collar had a very definite place in problem-solving for some dogs. Since the invention of the nylon parachute cord choke collar, however, the pinch collar's use is limited to only a couple of isolated dog-handler problems. In the past, the only time this collar was recommended was when we had a very large, high-energy, and insensitive dog (not a basset) who was being trained by a very small person who was not physically able to control the dog by using any other collar. We found that the nylon parachute cord choke collar works just as well on these types of dogs, and we now recommend it over the. pinch collar. The pinch collar is such a nasty-looking piece of equipment that many people found that they just couldn't bring themselves to use it on their out-of-control dogs. Also, the cost of the pinch collar is quite a bit more expensive (between $5.00 and $10.00) than the nylon parachute cord choke collar (around $3.00).
If the pinch collar is to be used effectively, it needs to be fitted very snugly, high up on the neck (near the head). This is accomplished by unhooking one of the links and then removing any excess links until you can just barely hook the links back together again. When the lead is pulled tight, the collar actually pinches the dog's skin. It does not poke the dog's neck as some people believe. I realize that this collar looks like a piece of torture equipment out of the dark ages; if you stop and think about it, however, the pinch collar is really more humane than jerking a dog on a choke collar and cutting off his air supply.
The pinch collar has never been effective on aggressive dogs because it just seems to make them more agitated, and the owner usually wears out long before the dog does. The pinch collar is also not effective in correcting lagging problems during heeling. The few times that I have observed people using this collar for that purpose I never did see any improvement in the dog's heeling after it was removed. If anything, the dogs were more resentful and resistive than ever.
The one example that comes to my mind of its appropriate use is on a large male German shepherd who is trained by a handicapped person confined to a wheel chair. The dog is somewhat insensitive and, because his trainer is in a sitting position when trying to correct his dog, he does not have the leverage to correct the dog for control. The dog also wears a nylon parachute cord choke collar and the trainer switches back and forth between the two collars. Most people who elect to use the pinch collar will also use some other collar as well and will switch back and forth.
I cannot think of even one case where a basset hound's training would benefit from the use of this type of collar. I only mention its use in this article because I feel that ignorance of this type of collar can lead to its inappropriate use. Because this collar cannot be worn by a dog anywhere on the grounds of an AKC show, its use is extremely limited. In any event, it should only be used until control is gained and then discontinued!
The Jumping Stick
The jumping stick is a simple, inexpensive piece of equipment. It is a piece of dowel rod, about one-half inch in diameter and three feet long, which may be painted or taped at four-inch intervals to resemble the Utility bar.
Stick-jumping is used to teach a dog timing, to correct jumping problems, to prepare a dog for the Utility bar jump and sometimes as a way to teach the turn on the broad jump. To begin stick-jumping, place your dog next to a wall or fence and show him the stick, rubbing his chest and legs with it while praising or treating him. Tell the dog to stay and move around to face him, with your toes about two feet from his toes. Take a step to the side so you are not directly in front of him but have left room for him to jump. A basset trainer will probably be more comfortable kneeling in this position, or you may choose to attach some sort of handle to your jumping stick so that you won't need to bend over. Hold the leash in your hand directly in front of the dog, with no slack between your hand and the dog's collar. Be sure the leash is parallel to the ground. Hold the stick in your other hand, between you and the dog, and under the leash. The stick should be at the dog's pastem level and the end should rest against the barrier. Give the dog the proper command (common commands used are "Hup," "Jump," and "Over") and give the leash a pop straight forward-not upward, Ideally, the dog will jump over the stick, but even if he walks over it one foot at a time, praise him enthusiastically and give him a food reward. Repeat the procedure until the dog is moving smoothly over the stick (even if it is at a walk) with only minimal force and the use of the verbal command. Begin to increase the distance between the dog and the stick, working gradually until the dog is jumping from the end of the leash, with only verbal encouragement. Move the stick up to the level of the middle of the dog's chest and work until lie is jumping smoothly. Begin to work away front the barrier, a few inches at a time. If the dog goes around the far end of the stick, put it back against the barrier and practice a bit more. Once the dog is jumping the stick completely away from the barrier, you may begin to work off leash and gradually raise the jumping height to the level of the dog's shoulders.
Most dogs enjoy stick-jumping, and it is an enjoyable way to exercise your dog almost anywhere. The stick is far more portable than a set of jumps and can be used to warm a dog up at a show for the advanced classes (being careful to remain beyond the show limits, as this may be construed as a form of training). Try to avoid jumping your dog on unyielding surfaces such as concrete or wood, and be sure the footing is sound rather than slippery.
This section on the jumping stick uses was written for this issue on Problem-Solving Techniques by Barbara Handler. I asked Barbara to write this section on stick-jumping because I personally have done very little of it with my own dogs. I do feel that it has a place in training and am teaching one of my current obedience dogs to jump using this method. Because Barbara has had extensive experience with the jumping stick with her own dogs and teaching others in her class (many of which are bassets), I felt she could best present its use to the readers.
The Baby Gate
The baby gate is a very flexible and useful piece Of obedience equipment and can be a very effective (non-force) method of teaching certain exercises. The baby gate can be purchased anywhere that baby accessories are sold such as department stores, specialty shops, and discount centers. Its intended use is as a flexible gate that can be attached to doorways to prevent toddlers from leaving or entering certain areas. Many dog shows that you attend today use a much longer version of the same thing for ring boundaries. In fact, you can purchase these special gates and supports from some show superintendents. For your purposes, however, the shorter, less-expensive baby gates designed and sold as door barriers are just as useful and a bit easier to transport and store. You can make your own supports by simply purchasing a piece of pegboard (lightweight and inexpensive) and cutting it in a wedge shape with a hand saw. After you have accomplished this, attach utility holders (with screws and washers) to the wedge-shaped supports. When I am transporting or storing this special equipment, I bind the gates and supports together with flexible cord.
In Novice training, two baby gates used as a chute can serve as a very good guide for teaching dogs just exactly where the "front" position on the recall is. Many soft and sensitive dogs respond better to being prevented from making mistakes, instead of being corrected after a mistake is already made.
In Open training, extending the baby gate out along the right side of the broad jump can be a handy way of teaching the dog to jump straight and make a good turn, right from the beginning of training. If a barrier is used, the dog is less likely to cut the corner or avoid the jump altogether by coming directly to you. In teaching the turn on the broad jump, gradually move from directly in front of the broad jump (facing the dog) when you call him one step at a time around to the side. Eventually, you will be standing directly in line with the baby gate at your side. Gradually move to the side of the baby gate until you have moved all the way to the proper side position for the formal exercise. If at any time during this process the dog makes a mistake, then back up to where the dog was doing the exercise perfectly and practice there. You may have been trying to progress too quickly for your dog to understand completely.
In Utility training, the use of one or more baby gates is a wonderful way to teach the go-out (or send away) part of directed jumping. Simply attach a piece of wire to the center of the baby gate (or if you are using two or more gates to the center support). lmpale a piece of soft food on the wire and take a couple of steps back from the gate and send your dog. Since the dog saw you put the goody on the wire and he is not far away from it, he is going to run to the goody and gobble it down immediately. (Needless to say, this method of teaching the go-out is totally ineffective for the non-food motivated dogs. However, the ones who truly love goodies are going to learn the go-out very quickly using this method.) Each time you send the dog, back up a bit farther and increase the distance. For several weeks, however, always show the dog that you are placing the goody on the wire before you send the dog, and always start each session with the dog close to the gate, moving farther back as the training session continues.
My current Utility dog learned to do straight go-outs the full length of the training building in one week. This dog would kill for food and so he was particularly motivated to learn this exercise In a hurry. Many Utility-trained dogs who are taught the go-out using a retrieve method have problems curving to either one comer or another at some point in training or showing. The reason many dogs have this problem is that the directed retrieve is the exercise right before the directed jumping. It is little wonder that many dogs become confused between the directed retrieve and the go-out, especially when the go-out is taught as a retrieve exercise.
Because of the length of this part on Problem-Solving Techniques, I will conclude this series in another article. At that time, I will present specific examples of problems that have been solved using these techniques so that you can see how to apply them to many of your own problems. Using your own creativity in training to solve problems can be a very exciting and rewarding part of dog training. Taking a more active role in finding just the right training program, method, and equipment for you and your dog can make this marvelous sport so much more fun and fulfilling for you both. Letting someone else do all the work in designing your training program can be about as rewarding as painting by numbers. I am not saying that you should not accept help and suggestions from your instructor and others. I simply believe that you need to run everything that you hear and read about dog training and equipment through your own mental computer and decide for yourself if it is suitable for you and your dog. Gather all the information that you can from others and then sort through it and choose what feels right. Discard what does not fit for either of you.
Above all, dog training should always be fun and a way for you to enjoy your dog as an obedient companion. To achieve the ultimate in obedience training is to realize your own realistic goals, enjoy the sport, develop a close and loving relationship with your dog, and to share with others who have the same thing in common with you: dog training.
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