First Impressions:
The Importance of a Good Heeling Hound

by Chris Wallen

Tally-Ho: May/June 1996

If there is one obedience exercise that is can symbolize your basset’s entire performance, I would have to say that it is "Heeling". Either on or off lead, this exercise sets the tone for your eventual total performance.

Imagine that you are on the outside of the ring as a spectator. You see an exhibitor walk into the ring with their dog. Both dog and handler are well groomed, and appear to be knowledgeable about what is expected of them. The judge give the command "Forward". The contestants move briskly and confidently. The dog is in good heel position, and his attention is on his handler. Within just a few steps, you can tell that this will be a good performance. You lean forward in your chair, and watch intently as this team runs through all their exercises.

Then, you watch the next exhibitor walk into the ring. They have the same breed of dog as the prior competitor, and are comparable to the previous pair in all outward appearances. That is, until the judge give the command "Forward". Within a few steps, you see a handler moving slowly and with no confidence. The dog behaves board and uninterested in what he is doing. He begins to sniff the ground or "sight-see"; occasionally bumping his handler leg to keep tabs on him. Within minutes, you lose interest in watching this team, and turn to talk to your companions.

If you have watched obedience for any time at all, you can picture yourself in this scenario. We have all been this spectator. Imagine now if you were the judge. What would your attitude be with each of these two contestants. In talking to several judges, they have told me that they often have the same first impressions as yours was as a spectator. The judge watching the first exhibitor would be well pleased to see the start of a good working team. They will often think: ‘This could be my High In Trial’. Even when there is a minor blunder, point deductions would reflect an overall pleasing performance that would carry over through all the exercises. The score for the second exhibitor would also reflect the judge’s first impressions. A lackluster, bored-dog performance will undoubtedly be full of minor blunders (and possibly a few major ones). The judge has been cued to watch for them. He will be more observant, and more critical.

Does this mean that contestant number two is doomed to never get high scores in obedience? Not necessarily. With a change in training style, there is always hope to revitalize their dog and make them a good heeler. Here are a few tips that I have used over the years:

• Training sessions should be mostly done "on lead" (I often suggest "on-lead" heeling to be done 75 to 80% of the time). This will give you more control to make those well deserved corrections. Of course, "on-lead" does not mean that your lead needs to be in you hands. Try to throw the lead up over your shoulder (due to the height of your dog, this works better if you are also short). You will be able to let your arms swing naturally, but still be able to grab the lead for a quick correction. I have also seen several people hook their leads to their belts. Anything would work that keeps your hands free, but a lead available for correction.
• Invisible Lead Training: Now days, you can purchase an "invisible lead" at dog show concession stands. In the old days, you had to make them up. I’m too cheap to buy something that I will probably lose in no-time, so here is how to make one: Start with a very light-weight harness snap; strong test fishing line (it should be cut somewhere between 3’ and 4’ long - whatever you prefer); and a 3" piece of dowel. Tie the snap to one end of the line, and the dowel to the other end. To use: Start by hooking both the invisible lead and regular lead on the dog. Hold the regular lead as usual, and have the dowel end of the invisible lead in either your swing hand. Do a quick session of on lead heeling. Then, make a big production of removing the "regular" lead so that your dog is well aware of what you are doing. Make sure that your dog’s collar is loose (as if off-lead) yet the clip for the invisible lead is still attached. Also, make sure that you have the dowel end tucked securely into your swing hand. Start heeling again. 60% of all dogs (and 95% of bassets) will try to take advantage of their new freedom. When appropriate, give a sharp correction with your invisible lead. Due to a dog’s normal vision, they will be hard pressed to see the fish line between their collar and your hand. They will soon begin to believe that you have mystical powers, and will soon realize that they will have to remain "on their toes" while on or off lead.
• Speed Thrills: That, at least, is my motto about heeling. Even though my dogs have short legs, they are not crippled. They are taught that they must keep up with me at whatever speed I walk. A brisk pace only reflects a confident performance, it also has some practical purpose. If my dog has to hustle to keep up with me, she doesn’t have time to sniff the floor, or window shop the audience during turns, or "tune out".
• Mix It Up: Basset’s are notorious for their short attention span. They hate doing anything repetitiously. When you think of it, heeling is boring. It is just walking around (usually in a circle when in class) and sitting every time you stop. They already know how to walk and sit, so they can’t see why they have to do it over and over again. Basset’s will often go into auto-pilot mode. An integrated heeling pattern may be as follows: Try to integrate all exercises into one. Start heeling, then do a heeling drop. Start forward again (remember, the dog is now 6’ behind) and when the dog catches up with you do an about turn. Maybe a few paces beyond, call your dog on a come in front of you. Give a stand signal, and have him stand in front of you. Tell the dog "Heel" and walk past him picking him up as you go. Do a fast, then stop. etc. etc. etc. Try to limit your straight heeling to not more than 20 paces before throwing in at least a turn. You should begin to see a change in your dog in a very short time. They will obviously have to begin to think, and more importantly, they will start to have "fun."
• Happy Talk, Happy Worker: It is your responsibility to make your basset realize that he really does like this thing called Obedience. That means that you have got to really like it. If you just drudge through the exercises, closed mouth and unenthusiastically, your dog will mirror your actions. If on the other hand, you act as if healing is the best thing since sliced bread, your basset will first think you are crazy, and then become infected with your enthusiasm. "Happy talk" is the best way I have found to infect your Basset with enthusiasm:
• "Come on . . . . Let’s go . . . . Get it up here . . . . That’s the way . . . . Here we go . . . . Good girl . . . . etc." are my typical phrases of encouragement. I am often heard chattering away to my dog though out my training sessions, and while warming up prior to entering the ring. My goal is to get my dog’s tail up and wagging.

In closing, remember that the secret of a good working obedience basset is a happy working obedience basset. "The tale is in the tail". . When a basset’s tail is wagging, they are not only giving a great performance, they are also having a great time. And after all, isn’t that the most important thing?

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