Back to CyberHoundBaby bassets are wonderful, aren’t they? Those big long ears, those clumsy short legs, those big sad eyes (that they already know how to use to get their way). If it was up to the puppy, they would move right in, steal your heart, and take over your couch and your life. Of course, that plan is usually not shared between hound and owner. Manners are mandatory for any family member. Your basset is no exception. But while you are setting the ground rules, you can also lay the foundation for a solid working obedient dog. Even if an Obedience Title Champion is not in you future plans, the following suggestions and training tips will help you make your young basset easier to train later in life, and a more enjoyable part of your life now.
A crate is a terrible thing to waste! It can be a life saver for your dog, and a sanity saver for you. Using a crate while house-breaking is a good way to introduce you puppy to the concept of his "safe place". You will be using your dog’s natural denning instinct, and his intense desire to not soil his bed.
The puppy should be placed in the crate (after having a chance to relieve himself outside) when either you are unable to watch him, or it is time for a rest period. He should not be forced into the crate; but encouraged by use of your voice, or even a bribe of a cookie. Limit the time the puppy must stay in his crate. You don’t want the puppy to be forced to soil his bed. If the puppy must be confined for extended periods, make arrangements for the puppy in either an outdoor run or exercise pen. His crate should be a positive place for him rather than a prison. Never use the crate as a punishment. If there is a mistake in the house-breaking department, realize that it was more your fault for not keeping track of your puppy rather than his fault for doing the deed.
It is also a good idea to feed him some of his meals in his crate. This will not only make him enjoy his crate time, but it will make it more likely that he will continue to eat if you travel with him and the only place he will be fed is in a crate.
There are many different methods of lead breaking a puppy. Often times, even members of the same litter will handle the restriction of a lead and collar differently. I tend to use a combination of whatever works. Note: It is best to lead break you puppy in the privacy of you yard where no one else can see you. It avoids the puppy playing his distress up in front of an audience.
I start my puppies with a non-chock show lead, but any type of non-choke collar will work. I also use the buddy system. I will put leads on both the puppy and an older dog, hold both leads in one hand, say a little prayer, and start walking. Ideally, the puppy should start trucking right along with the older dog. You should be giving encouragement to both. Make several turns so that the puppy realizes that there is a limit to his freedom. It does not matter what direction you walk, just make sure that you are choosing the path rather than the puppy. Distribute cookies liberally to reinforce this as a positive experience.
Of course, your puppy may not be so amiable about losing from freedom. He may do the door stop routine, or even worse; he may throw a full blown tantrum. My telling you to ignore this behavior may sound good here, but when you have your puppy doing back-flips, it is a hard rule to follow. Be strong! The more you react to your puppy’s negative behavior, the worse it will become. Simply stand quietly and let your puppy get his bad actions out of his system. When he has settled down, tug lightly on the lead, show him a cookie, and try to encourage him in coming with you. If he has planted himself so deeply that you swear he is growing roots, switch directions and walk with the buddy dog back past him. Use verbal encouragement and cookies to get him interested in moving, but do not touch him as he will equate your touch with praise. Always end on a positive note. Even if that means that you puppy only walked a few feet. Persistence is the key. If you are having trouble lead breaking you puppy, work a little longer each session, several times a day. Eventually, things will get better. Just remember, you will need to be more stubborn than your puppy.
If you will be your puppy’s trainer, he should realize that your happiness is his responsibility. Although bassets are not picky about their owners, they do tend to have a greater respect for those who keep them happy. You should become your pup’s primary care provider. This means feeding, walking, training, etc. This does not mean that your puppy should be isolated from the rest of the family, but it should become very clear to him that you are the light of his life. This is also the time to make the puppy aware of his place in his new pack (your family). So often, bad behaviors in a puppy are overlooked or ignored because they are "cute". Your puppy will not be able to distinguish what actions that are allowed now will not be tolerated when he is an adult. For example, if you do not want your basset to jump up on the furniture as an adult, don’t pick him up and hold him on you lap as you sit on the couch now.
Being possessive over a person, food, or play toys will lead to major dominance problems in the future. Biting or growling at people for any reason (including toenail cutting), should not be allowed. In these situations, you will need to take over the job vacated by his dam and teach you puppy manners in a way that he will understand. The best way to correct dominate or aggressive behavior is to make your puppy submit. When bad behavior is displayed, kneel over you puppy, firmly tell him "No", and roll him on his back. Look down on him and keep him restrained until he stops fighting you. If needed, shake him slightly while repeating the "No" command. He just realize that you are Alpha; and he is not!
A well rounded puppy does not mean that he is fat! It means that he is thriving both physically and mentally. Socialization can never be over stressed. It is you responsibility to see to it that he is introduced to as many new situations as possible.
Of course, make sure that he is protected with proper inoculations first. Then, the sky is the limit. Take him on car rides to more places than just the vet (the crate works wonderful in this situation). Take him for a walk in the neighborhood. Go to the woods or the beach. Go to places where there will be people like a shopping center or park. Fun Matches are wonderful places to socialize your puppy. Even if you do not plan to show you puppy in conformation, there are many new sounds, sights, and situations that he has not come across before. If your area has them, sign you and your puppy up for "Puppy Kindergarten" class. Much of what you will learn in the class is covered in this article, but you will be teaching it to your puppy in a stressful situation and building his confidence.
Play is the best way to learn for a puppy. It will not only teach him coordination and physical ability, but it will also help him discover his world and increase his mental abilities. This is an opportunity easily missed by most puppy owners. Why not use this activity to your advantage?
Problem Solving: These simple games are designed to expand your puppy’s mind and make his curiosity work towards positive conclusions. Basically, these games have been used to prove intelligence, but I feel that they can really be used to teach your puppy determination and positive motivation. Start with that cookie again. Show it to your puppy then put it on the ground in front of him and cover it with either a can or a cloth. Tell your puppy to "find it" and encourage him to do so. At first, you may need to help him uncover it. Soon he will get the idea and you will be able to increase the difficulty of this game. Variations to this game may mean putting a treat under or behind an obstacle so that the puppy can see it but not reach it with his mouth. The puppy is to learn to use his pays to bring it within his reach (you will need to modify this exercise to our breeds ability). Another game that will also help in future training for tracking is to drag a hot dog in a nylon over the ground and hide his reward out of site. Puppy will need to trail the scent to find his treat. Quite Time Play: This can be done when the puppy is tired out. He will be wanting to rest, and not real willing to give you much resistance. This is the time to teach him that it is OK to let you be in control. Start by rolling your puppy on his back. Do this slowly and gently so that the puppy does not feel that he is being punished. Gently talk to your puppy as you rub his tummy. Eventually, try to hold and move about each paw. This exercise should be done in degrees so that your puppy will remain relaxed and show no resistance to your actions.
I am often asked how early one should start training their puppy. My answer is always the same, you already started when you first brought him home! Your puppy is learning things from you whether you want him to or not. You might as well capitalize on this early by laying a good foundation of understanding simply obedience commands. I call this cookie training. The idea is to make your puppy do what you want without him knowing it. This will make things much easier when it is time for serious training. There should be no formal training sessions, and no strict corrections, as young puppies do not have an adequate attention span to tolerate this. It is best to sprinkle these exercises in during play time. This will make the puppy eager to perform these tasks for you, and it will instill a good working attitude throughout his life.
Watch Me: Although it does not seem to do anything now, this command will become vital in future training. Show your puppy a cookie. Tell him "Watch Me", and hold the cookie just under your neck. If the puppy loses interest or looks away, waive the cookie under his nose to get his attention again, repeat the command, and return you hand to where it was. Do not over do. You just want to teach the concept now. At first, give praise and a cookie reward for the puppy just looking up into your face. Then, start to lengthen the time between command and praise. Eventually, you want to give the command and have the puppy look up at you without holding the cookie.
Sit: This exercise starts with your puppy standing in front of you. Hold a cookie in you right hand above your puppy’s head (you will eventually use your right hand for the sit signal). Tell your puppy to "sit" as you move the cookie back towards the puppy’s back.. Gravity being what it is, the puppy will have to sit to keep his keen little eyes on that cookie. Obviously, with a positive reaction, the puppy gets the cookie (or piece thereof). If your puppy jumps up in an attempt to grab the cookie, say "no" and take the cookie away. Wait a few seconds until your puppy calms down and is watching you and then start over again.
Down: Basset owners have a distinct disadvantage with this exercise due to our dogs stubby little legs; but what the heck, what’s another challenge! The puppy should be sitting at the beginning of this exercise. Again, you will be holding the cookie in your right hand. This time, cup you hand over the cookie on the ground in front of the puppy. He should be very interested in it. Tell the puppy "Down". Move your hand (the one covering the cookie) towards the puppy’s chest and under his left front leg. With your other hand, hold the puppy’s shoulder and gently push him off balance to his right. When the puppy is lying down (preferably on his right hip), he gets the cookie. If your puppy becomes more aware of your actions then the cookie, start over again. The down is a very defenseless position, depending on your puppy’s confidence level, this exercise may take a bit more perseverance.
There are two other commands that I always try to teach all of my dogs. These are "Here" and "Heap." The "Here" command means simply to "get over here". The command word used is the option of the trainer. It should be anything but "Come" as this will eventually mean a formal exercise ending with a straight sit in front of the handler. The "Here" should be taught when your puppy is on lead. When he becomes interested in something other than you, tell him "Here" and give him a jentle pop with the lead. When your puppy comes to you, give him lots of praise and a cookie. Continue to repeat the exercise until the pop of the lead is no longer needed.
The "Heap" command is very similar to the down, and taught the same way; but the position is less restrictive. To your puppy, it should mean to stay in a laying position, but you can still sniff, shift, roll, lay on your back, or fall asleep. Again, the command word is optional. But believe me, you will really appreciate your puppy knowing this exercise when company comes over, or when you are at a show and don’t want him in your lap.
Well, hopefully these tips will help you with you new puppy. Remember, all training of young bassets should be done in short play sessions. Always end an exercise with a success. And never train when you are in a bad mood. If you make learning new things fun and enjoyable for your puppy now, he will continue to have a positive attitude about obedience throughout his life!