|04-08-2017, 09:47 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Join Date: Apr 2017
First time Basset owner
Hello! My name is Shauna and I am a first time Basset Hound owner. I ended up getting Bella at 6 weeks due to issues with the breeders cleanliness and concern for her well being. She's a beautiful little girl and I love her so much, but I'm realizing there are definitely some differences with her and other puppies I've had.
I'm currently keeping her gated into one room until she's fully potty trained and can be trusted on the carpet. Her "pad" potty training has been going fairly well since I started using trainer treats. Though I have noticed she's pretty smart and will fake potty or force something out just for praise or a treat.
Unfortunately, she does already have some bad habits at 8.5 weeks old. I'm sure it's just being a puppy, but I'm not sure when to start being firm about things like lightly taking a treat, waiting for her food bowl nicely and regular training like sit, down, lay down, etc. She's REALLY starting to find her voice and heavily talks back when she doesn't get what she wants. I can't let her bark incessantly where I live, so I'm sure how to train her without seeming like I'm giving in.
Any and all advice is deeply appreciated! Thank you
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|04-10-2017, 10:50 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: southcentral Pa.
"but I'm not sure when to start being firm about things like lightly taking a treat, waiting for her food bowl nicely and regular training like sit, down, lay down, etc. She's REALLY starting to find her voice and heavily talks back when she doesn't get what she wants. I can't let her bark incessantly where I live, so I'm sure how to train her without seeming like I'm giving in. "Quote
It's not too early to establish how you want her to do the things you listed- be consistent in using the same word for what you want her to do, say it once firmly, reward with treats. Praise and treats work best for bassets. Walk away from her when she's acting bratty (yelling rewards her with attention, you need to withdraw attention instead).
Otto is calm and mellow now (mostly: ha ha) but as a puppy he was rambunctious and would sometimes work himself into a frenzy- I would give him a time out until he calmed down. In daily interactions, I made a point of rewarding him with words and treats when he was calm, to reinforce what I wanted.
Some bassets are just more vocal than others. To avoid crying when we left the house, I always gave the puppy a stuffed Kong when he was left alone, so that he associated us leaving with something good- he only got the Kong when he was left alone. A stuffed Kong can last a really long time and keep a puppy busy.
It could also help to find a good puppy training class in your area.
Hope something I said helps- good luck, and keep us posted-
|04-11-2017, 12:12 PM||#3 (permalink)|
"8.5 week old"
rather than working on no biting you should be teaching bite inhibition. Especial when it was removed from its siblings so young.
Bite Inhibition - How to Teach It
Rather than "No bite," I strongly, strongly, strongly urge you to teach your puppy bite inhibition instead. Bite inhibition is a "soft mouth." It teaches the pup how to use his mouth gently. Does this mean that the pup will forever be mouthing you? No, not at all. Actually, regardless of the method used, puppies generally grow out of mouthing behavior after a few months.
So why should you teach bite inhibition? Because dogs have one defense: their teeth. Every dog can bite. If frightened enough or in pain or threatened, your dog *will* bite. That doesn't in any way make him a "bad" dog. It makes him a dog. It's your responsibility, therefore, to teach your dog that human skin is incredibly fragile. If you teach your dog bite inhibition that training will carry over even if he is later in a position where he feels forced to bite.
A story... Ian Dunbar tells a story of a bite incident he had to asses. A Golden Retriever therapy dog was leaving a nursing home and his tail was accidentally shut in a car door. The owner went to help, and the dog delivered four Level Four bites before she could react.
FYI, a standard scale has been developed to judge the severity of dog bites, based on damage inflicted. The scale is:
* Level One: Bark, lunge, no teeth on skin.
* Level Two: Teeth touched, no puncture.
* Level Three: 1-4 holes from a single bite. All holes less than half the length of a single canine tooth.
* Level Four: Single bite, deep puncture (up to one and a half times the depth of a single canine tooth), wound goes black within 24 hours.
* Level Five: Multiple bite attack or multiple attack incidents.
* Level Six: Missing large portions of flesh.
Technically, the woman received a Level Five bite from a long-time therapy dog. Dr. Dunbar wasn't the least bit surprised by the bites. I mean, the dog got his tail shut in a car door! Of course he bit! What shocked Dr. DUnbar was that a dog with no bite inhibition was being used as a therapy dog.
"But he's never bitten before." Of course not. And barring an accident like that, he probably never would have. But an accident is just that. An accident. Unpredicted. What if it had happened in the nursing home?"
"but I'm not sure when to start being firm about things like lightly taking a treat, waiting for her food bowl nicely and regular training like sit, down, lay down, etc. "
IMHO most people define firm as train via compulsion. Compulsion in general works very poorly when training bassets. If this is what you mean I would say never.
How ever positive does not mean permissive, from https://www.clickerdogs.com/trainingreminders.htm
"POSITIVE does not equal PERMISSIVE. This is the guiding principle of Say Yes Dog Training. You must be consistent. If a behaviour is acceptable at home (example the dog choosing not to lie down when told) it is also acceptable during work. Approach training and home life with a patient disposition and a strict application of what is and isn’t acceptable. Training happens 24 hours a day 7 days a week; your dog is always learning regardless if you are actively training or not!"
"training like sit, down, lay down, etc"
I am guessing by down you really mean "off" a much better verbal cue because it will not cause confusion.
1 . sit and down are behavior the dog know. you do not have to train these at all. What you have to train is the dog to respond to a cue for the behavior that is very different from training the behavior. These naturally occurring behaviors I generally train by a technique called capturing. http://www.dog-training-excellence.com/capturing-a-dog-behavior.html
There is no need to wait at all to start training the puppy.
The last dog I trained in forma obedience I started at 12 week with a Sporn halter to teach healing. What does a puppy that age do when it stops walking. it sits. I see so many basset when heeling in obedience forget the automatic sit when heeling in the ring under all that stress. Never happened with mind because it really never had to be taught it was natural for him because that is just what you do . Also speaks to power of capturing vs having to teach a behavior.
Last edited by Mikey T; 04-13-2017 at 08:05 AM.
|04-11-2017, 12:16 PM||#4 (permalink)|
"She's REALLY starting to find her voice and heavily talks back when she doesn't get what she wants. "
LOL I'm an expert at training that behavior. I can get almost any basset to do that with me in 15-30 minutes of training. This is most definitely a learned behavior. the dog does this because it is rewarded for the behavior. maybe not intentional bu rewarded none the less. Want less of the behavior. stop rewarding it. simply turn your back on the dog and walk away.