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Old 01-22-2013, 10:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Questions About My 10 Week Old

Hello All,


We have a 10 week old named Holly who I have been the primary care giver for for about 3 and 1/2 weeks. We picked her up on Dec 27 as a Christmas present for my sister and I have since spent a lot time lurking on this site. We made some mistakes with our last basset and I want to make sure we raise this one right. I do appreciate all the basset lovers on here sharing their insights. It's really helped me a lot and Holly has come a long way since I started implementing a lot of the techniques Ive learned on this site. I am hoping I can have a few questions answered as I feel like I am hitting a plateau in getting Holly house/potty/people trained. I apologize for the length, but I wanted to paint an accurate picture.



Holly and I struck up an immediate bond when we got her, and we have become pretty tight in the short time my family has had her. I'm an unemployed college grad, so I've taken the lead in raising Holly. I became especially motherly to her for a short while when I learned that we picked her up two weeks too soon at six weeks. It helped. I spend a lot of time with her and have her trained pretty well up until now. I tried a lot of the behavior techniques I learned from this site (using a crate, yelping like a dog when she nips, rewards and treats, etc) and they've worked, so far. She's on a healthy diet, I can leave her for various lengths of time, she sleeps, plays by herself quietly, knows when play time is over (most of the time), yelps when she is hungry or has to go potty, and in general shes pretty good about knowing her boundaries (although she can be a pain when she gets under that bush!). She trusts me and I have her on a pretty regular schedule of sleep, potty, eat, sleep, potty, playtime, water, sleep, potty, sleep (x2 Daily).


She has regular contact with other family members, but that is where most of my concerns lie. My questions pertain mainly to her behavior, and if she will grow out of/naturally learn certain things, or if I need to be more of an active trainer to her.


Her nipping still persists. With me, she stops herself at skin, but is constantly gnawing at my clothing. With my other family members, she seems to always be wanting to bite or nip at them. Any effort to get her to stop just agitates and excites her more until I get involved and calm her. But then once she sees somebody else, she gets excited again. I've been pretty good about not exposing her to too much stimulation at once too soon, and I don't just drop her and leave either. But a little play in the evening with other family members should be pretty standard. My question is: Will this behavior phase out naturally as she matures? Or do we need to be more strict with her when she nips so she REALLY gets the point? Do you have any suggestions on how I can get her better acquainted with my other family members?


With regards to potty training, she spends a lot of time in her crate, and I have her very well trained to let me know when she needs to go. Sometimes if she fusses a lot I have to take her out a number of times before I am confident she doesn't have to go. But I'd rather do that than take any chances. Eventually she either goes when I take her or she settles down after realizing its not play time. I haven't let her roam around much, and when we do, at the slightest motion that she might have to go I take her out for a couple of minutes. My question is: At what point can I be confident to let her roam around and not be so neurotic about taking her outside thinking she has to pee every few minutes? Will she understand that outside is where to go, or will she consider indoors a place to soil as well since she is outside her crate? Do I just have to bite the bullet and let her roam around a while - until either she goes, I catch her before shes REALLY about to go, or she lets me know? I can use old rugs no problem if thats the case, but then all she does is nip at the edges and doesn't relax enough to go.


I have also been curious as to how to exercise her properly at this age. I understand that I should not take her walking in public places until she gets all of her shots. That seems pretty obvious. I have read not to play tug of war or chase games that involve biting either so as not to teach them aggression. However, we have a decent size yard, and I find that the only way I can get her to run around a bit is to have her chase me and occasionally nip at my pants. She has plenty of toys, and one in particular she wrestles around with. I give some to her and take some away at various times so she doesn't get bored with them all at once. But those only give her some playful things to do and chase after for a short while. My question is: Is she too young to learn a game like fetch? What are some ways to get her moving at a decent pace without making her aggressive? Approximately how much and what kind of exercise should a 3-4 month basset be getting? I assume I can walk her regularly once she gets all her shots.

L
astly, on the subject of shots, since she won't have them all until 16 weeks, do I have to wait until then to begin a dog training class with her? Can I begin a class now, which is preferrable, assuming the other dogs in the class are clean as well? Or should I just steer clear entirely of other dogs until she gets all her shots?


Thanks if you made it this far. I hope this can help anybody in the future dealing with raising a basset puppy. It's been a good experience for me and I hope I can really get Holly along on this next phase with us.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:41 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Questions About My 10 Week Old

Welcome holly, I too have a Basset puppy who will be 12 weeks tomo. I too got her at 6 weeks and she also clinged too me as well. However she is really good with other people, she does nip and bite but its mostly play biting. You need to teach her bite inhibition, what I do even if she play bites I say ouchhh and she stops... By doin this it shows her the limit of biting and that it hurts.

Also about the whole fetch thing I thought my puppy kenzie fetch and now she knows it I don't think it's an aggressive play. As far as potty training it takes awhile and I wouldn't suggest letting her go inside... Unless its an accident of course,but if u see her in action say no and simply take her outside. They say most bassets aren't fully potty trained until one year of age.

I do think it is critical to spend a lot of time with her and play a lot with her. Puppies often get bored but its good to have her on a schedule like you already do. I hope this helps, I'm a new Basset owner this is just all I've learned in my expire nice with Kenzie. Good luck! Post pics of your hound


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Old 01-22-2013, 11:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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My question is: Will this behavior phase out naturally as she matures? Or do we need to be more strict with her when she nips so she REALLY gets the point?
yes nipping an mouthing fad when the puppy mature but while teething it can get worse. but hers the point you have a very limitied time to teach the most inportant thing a dog can learn and that is bite inhibition and do that you need a dog that mouth so actual her behavior is a good thing see

Bite Inhibition


teaching Bite inhibition

More on Bite Inhibition because it is that important
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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is: At what point can I be confident to let her roam around and not be so neurotic about taking her outside thinking she has to pee every few minutes?
see Housetraining your dog

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A 12 wk puppy who is busy playing may need to urinate every 15-20 minutes, whereas a resting puppy might go for an hour, and a sleeping puppy can go 8 hours at night. Activity makes urine! Activity makes urine! Repeat this 10 times, slowly. This is a very important lesson for new puppy owners.


IMHO on reason basset have a reputation as being hard to housetrain is because well they are the are slow to develop sphincter control so when ever you see an estimat like the one above figure on cutting it in half at least when dealing with a basset.

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Will she understand that outside is where to go, or will she consider indoors a place to soil as well since she is outside her crate?

from article above
Quote:
The behavior behind this training: Dogs develop substrate preferences for eliminating. By substrate, I mean what they feel under their feet. In their first few weeks of life they need their mother to lick them to stimulate elimination. Around 4 weeks of age they begin to control this themselves. It is a self-rewarding behavior because it feels good. They associate this good feeling with the environment they are in at the time. This is about the same time they are walking well enough to go outside. If they are taken outside enough, several times a day, during this period of development (4 through 8 weeks) they will associate the good feeling of relieving themselves with the grass under their feet, the sky above, and all the smells and sounds of the outdoors. The tactile experience, the texture under the feet, becomes the cue.
If your puppy does not already have this outdoor experience, then you can provide it for him now, to retrain the "substrate preference" he has already learned. Take the pup out about once per hour. This is after play, eating, sleeping, etc. If the puppy can't hold his urine from the crate to the back door while walking, carry him for the first week or so. After a busy play session, take the puppy out, even if it's only been 15 minutes since he last went out. Physical activity produces urine. Inactivity slows the production of urine. This is why a puppy can sleep all night without wetting in the crate, but will urinate on the floor as soon as you let him out of the crate.
Dogs have an instinctive sense of cleanliness for their den. They are reluctant to wet or soil it, and will keep it clean and dry if physically possible. Eventually this sense of cleanliness will extend to your entire house.



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Old 01-22-2013, 11:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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since she won't have them all until 16 weeks, do I have to wait until then to begin a dog training class with her?


absolutely not see Position statement Puppy Socialization
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The primary and most importantt ime for puppy socialization is the first three months of life.1, 2 During this time puppies should be exposed to as many new people, animals, stimuli and environments as can be achieved safely and without causing overstimulation manifested as excessive fear, withdrawal or avoidance behavior. For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.

...

In fact, behavioral problems are the number one cause of relinquishment to shelters.3 Behavioral issues, not infectious diseases, are the number one cause of death for dogs under three years of age.
While puppies’ immune systems are still developing during these early months, the combination of maternal immunity, primary vaccination, and appropriate care makes the risk of infection relatively small compared to the chance of death from a behavior problem.
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Old 01-23-2013, 02:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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You have done a wonderful job so far.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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When I first got Ellie she was a biting terror. Shredding my hands and arms. When she would nip at me (usually when excited and playing) I would "yelp", turn away, then give her a substitute (toy, chew, other acceptable things other than my body). She has really seemed to "get it" and no longer is tearing me apart.

As far as other family members and guest, I would suggest teaching them the techniques that are successful for you to inhibit the nipping. Also, I would have family members great her calmly just to avoid the excitement.

as for potty training... stick with the schedule, put her out after all naps and play. I take treats outside with me to instantly reward when she has been a good girl outside and we have a Party (lots of rubs and praise). As for accidents inside, if I catch her, I tell her NO, point out the area and put her outside (no "punishment" other than "No") Ellie is also piddle pad trained (a blessing in the freezing weather... not an outdoor girl) when she hits the mark, she is also praised, but no treat.

As for play, Ellie is a "fetching" dog. We play fetch and it tends to wear her out. Of course, I throw a ball, she comes back with a stuffed toy, throw the toy, back with a bone. I have taught her to let go of whatever item she returns with by saying "Mine" and she drops it so I can toss it again.
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Old 01-24-2013, 12:08 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I'm going to leave most of this hugely long question to others and just pick up on a few important (imvho) points . Number one being the amount of time she's spending in a crate. Puppies need to be able to run around so their joints, bones and muscles develop correctlyl. I'm afraid there will be the odd mistake and for this, with a young puppy, I always have a thick towel to hand to mop up mistakes before they soak in. I do use a crate, but only for the time I can't supervise what's going on, to keep a puppy out of mischief and danger (especially the danger!). I don't believe any pup should be crated for much over 2 hours at a stretch, overnight apart. I know it's hard to let go when it comes to stopping messes/mistakes, but if you don't expose her to this, she's not going to learn. I also realise that it's hard with the low-slung Basset, to know whether they have peed until they move off LOL. But you should, over time, get to learn the signs. Having a BM is different - lots of time to get advanced warning of that!! So let her out of her crate more often now. Plan on getting her out immediately she wakes up from a nap, after each feed, depending on when she last went, and after short periods of playing. You'll notice her break off playing and 'look distant'. This is a sign! When she empties outside, give her loads of praise, when she starts to go, you catch her in the act, you say No (don't shout or you'll make her run) and get her outside. If you miss a mistake, clear it up without comment. This way she should recognise the difference. It's not going to happen in 5 minutes, but the fewer mistakes she has indoors, the faster she'll get there. Remember her mistakes are your mistakes. And start an outside every hour schedule, for now, extending, depending on how often you really feel she needs to empty. And right now, don't wait to be asked because it's not going to happen - even with my adults, it's me who dictates when!!

For nipping, if you got her that young, she's missed out on the rough and tumble of being in the litter, but I've always found the best way is to try not to let her get to the manic level where she'll do this. When she does, get up, end the contact, take her outside to empty, and then crate her with a few biscuits. She may complain, but as I always feel this level of nipping means they are getting tired, she should drop off to sleep. As an extra play thing, I have often found an old sock knotted makes a wonderful Basset-type play thing. As for fetch - mine have never done fetch! My Whippet will, endlessly with her Kong Wubba but Frankie will have nothing to do with it. There's no point getting to her level when she nips - she needs to be calmed down or she will come back for more. Gentle correction - always. Shouting (and I can't imagine you'd be hitting) will only raise the level.

Exercise. Depending on whether you have a heavy boned big girl, or a lighter one, you absolutely must err on the less, until she's 6 months. Otherwise if you overdo it early days, you may well have an adult that's forever 'on three legs'. In other words to keep her sound until she has muscles to support heavy bone, the could be injured. Up to 6 months therefore, just a brief bit of road-work to get her used to the sight and sound of traffic, and some free ambling around. After 6 months, you start to up the amount, gradually. With more of the free-running than organised road-work. Once she's come through the first year and is still sound, then most will take as much, or as little as you are prepared to give. Whatever you do, don't drag her - Bassets are well known for doing the Basset flop - listen to her! This means she's had enough.

Most dog training ( Bassets and training ?!!) classes will require your pup to have had all his vaccination before attending. And always remember that many of the sometimes fatal dog diseases can be walked onto a property, even if the other dog(s) is healthy and vaccinated. Same goes for shoes. It only takes one after all. So don't take her anywhere where large numbers of dogs congregate until she's had her complete set of shots.

Good luck with little Holly - this is going to be a huge learning curve, for both of you

ps. Much as it may be tempting in the cold weather, do not use pee pads. This will only confuse her and tell her it's fine to empty indoors, which basically, it's not.
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Old 01-24-2013, 02:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Puppies need to be able to run around so their joints, bones and muscles develop correctly
no disagreement there but it should not be a slippery surface as well . Use an old rug etc if you need to to provide a surface with reasonable traction.
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Old 01-24-2013, 04:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Around here the puppy classes require that the pup be up to date on shots, rather than that they've had the full set, simply because early training and socialization is so important.
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